Finnish music godfather up for a Grammy

Lost for half a century, the first opera by Finland’s leading contemporary composer is rediscovered and nominated for a Grammy award. In an exclusive interview with thisisFINLAND, Einojuhani Rautavaara recalls a work considered so inflammatory that it was suppressed during the Cold War.

Rautavaara, born in 1928 and still actively composing, began writing the music and lyrics for his first opera, Kaivos (The Mine) in Switzerland in 1957. He found his inspiration in an ill-fated miners’ strike that had taken place in Soviet-dominated Hungary.

In Finland – then walking a tightrope between East and West – the subject matter was considered politically dangerous. A toned-down concert version was broadcast on Finnish television in 1963.

Then the piece was virtually forgotten until a summer evening in 2008, when conductor Hannu Lintu visited Rautavaara.

The story of a damn good opera

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Hannu Lintu conducts the Tampere Philharmonic, bringing the long-forgotten “Kaivos” to life.Photo: Ari Ijäs

“He mentioned Kaivos and I was like, ‘Sorry, what are you talking about?’” recalls Lintu. “I’d never heard of it. So he started to tell the story of the opera. Hearing that some of the music ended up in his string pieces, I knew it must be damn good.” The two went over it, Rautavaara making some slight revisions, and the tragic work premiered in Tampere in late 2010 with the composer in attendance.

“That performance made me hope that this 50-year-old work would at last find its way onto an opera stage as well,” says Rautavaara. “It was very frustrating that it was not staged back in the ’60s. That’s the reason why I stopped writing operas until the 1980s.”

Rautavaara went on to compose four more acclaimed operas. He is also popular for more accessible pieces such as Cantus Arcticus, which incorporates birdsongs he recorded in northern Finland.

The premiere recording of Kaivos (Ondine Records) spotlights veteran baritone Jorma Hynninen, soprano Johanna Rusanen-Kartano and Estonian tenor Mati Turi, backed by the Tampere Philharmonic. The challenging 75-minute work includes elements of avant-garde serialism, romanticism, folk music and even jazz, which plays on a radio in one scene.

Missing link

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Einojuhani Rautavaara sits at the piano that occupies a prominent place in his living room.Photo: Ari Korkala/FIMIC

How did the opera sound to the composer after all these years? “I was surprised to hear that it really was possible to create eloquent, touching music based on 12-tone technique,” he recalls. Also known as dodecaphony, this rigid technique was in vogue in the mid-20th century as part of the serialism movement.

Rautavaara later abandoned these strict methods in favour of a more melodic, mystical style epitomised by Angel of Light, his seventh symphony. “I realised that serialism, brought to its logical extreme – as I did in my Fourth Symphony in 1962 – produced music which no longer expressed my intuition. Rather, it became more or less mechanical. Even now, though, I often use my own variation of 12-tone technique.”

Lintu believes the work marks a crucial turning point in Rautavaara’s career. “It’s a key work because he changed his style during the composition of this piece,” says Lintu. “The music is actually quite scary and frightening at the beginning, because it’s so strictly dodecaphonic. Towards the end, he goes in a more romantic direction. On the final pages of this opera, we can actually hear the Rautavaara whom we know.”

“Something happened to his compositional style during this piece – perhaps something in the text or the story had something to do with his change of style,” says Lintu, hinting at a parallel between the doomed miners’ rejection of totalitarianism and Rautavaara’s rebellion against Central European musical authoritarianism.

“We’ve found the piece where he switched from very strict modernism to the more romantic direction. It’s an important opera – a missing link in his career.”

Generosity in music

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In good spirits: Rautavaara hopes that a full-scale opera production of “Kaivos” may be staged some day.Photo: Sakari Viika

In 1955, the 90-year-old Jean Sibelius chose Rautavaara as the winner of a Sibelius scholarship to study in the US. The budding composer studied for two years at Juilliard in New York and took a summer course taught by Aaron Copland. After studies in Switzerland and Germany, Rautavaara earned a degree from Helsinki’s Sibelius Academy – where he later taught composition for decades.

“Rautavaara is an important figure for all of us,” says Lintu. “He has helped young composers, as he himself was helped by Sibelius. He has been very generous. We can always visit him to talk about music. He’s Godfather Number One in Finnish musical life!”

Rautavaara remains busy, now composing a quintet for New York’s Chamber Music Society. Meanwhile, the Grammies are handed out in Los Angeles on February 12, 2012. [Editor’s note: On the big day, Kaivos did not end up winning the Grammy.]

“The nomination is a great honour,” adds Rautavaara. “It gives me faith in the future of Kaivos.”

By Wif Stenger, January 2012

Your honeymoon with the Finnish language

So you’re still thirsting to unlock more mysteries of the Finnish language and understand how the Finnish brain works? Check out these three dictionaries – the next level is always just a page turn away.

Alright, so you know the Finnish nicknames for red wine (punkku), white wine (valkkari) and that liquorice-flavoured vodka stuff (salmiakkikossu), and your array of weather-related expressions grows larger with each passing season. But you sense that there must be more than that to speaking Finnish, and indeed, more than that to life in Finland.

Happily, there is. This article will help you enrich your vocabulary and get on the path from intermediate to advanced with three little dictionaries. You’ll understand more of what’s going on around you, and you’ll be able to say what you mean – and mean what you say.

A sense of rhythm

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“Rytmitaju” (sense of rhythm) is exemplified by the Finnish cult band Leningrad Cowboys, who released a new album at the end of 2011.Photo: Dirk Behlau

Finnish Dictionary for the Language Learner (published by Finnlibri) offers Finnish-English wordlists under 150 different subject headings covering a broad range of situations, concepts and ideas. In the “Music” section you’ll gain rytmitaju (a sense of rhythm), and you’ll finally figure out all those S-words: sovittaa (arrange), sanoittaa (write lyrics), soittaa (play), säestää (accompany) and säveltää (compose).

Each section unfurls in alphabetical order, and this can yield a strange effect: “Family occasions” starts with avioero (divorce) and ends with vihkiäiset (marriage ceremony). However, somewhere in between you’ll also find häämatka (honeymoon) and kastetilaisuus (christening ceremony).

The strength of this dictionary lies in its format. Rather than looking up individual words, readers can review whole topics at a glance. How about “Feelings and moods,” “Location and direction” or “Hiding, losing and finding”? Get into “Society” and “School and education” – or skip straight to “Reptiles, lizards and amphibians.”

Going native

The unilingual Suomen sanakirja opiskelijoille ja ulkomaalaisille (Finnish Dictionary for Students and Foreign Learners, Gummerus) embodies another learning strategy. There comes a time when you need to branch out from bilingual dictionaries and go native.

Reading definitions of Finnish words in Finnish can increase your learning exponentially, if you take the plunge. With every entry, you pick up synonyms, and example sentences show you how the term is used. Viulu (violin) means nelikielinen jousisoitin, joka soitettaessa tuetaan leuan alle, “a four-stringed, bowed instrument supported under the jaw while playing.” At the same time you learn that Saat maksaa viulut, literally “You pay for the violins,” means “You cover the cost.”

As the title indicates, if you use this dictionary, you’re approaching the level of native Finnish-speaking students. An earlier edition was named Nykysuomen keskeinen sanasto (Essential vocabulary of modern Finnish) – another sign that you’re on the right track.

The unbearable lightness of speaking

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Duck! Finnish hockey star Teemu Selänne of the NHL team Anaheim Ducks finishes a “lämäri” (slapshot).Photo: Phillip MacCallum/AFP/Lehtikuva

Remember that sunny day long ago, when you came out of your first Finnish course ready to test your new-found knowledge? Chances are that you quickly realised spoken Finnish differs from the written Finnish in your lesson book. Something as simple as minä, meaning “I,” regularly changes to , or mie or mää in certain regions.

That’s just the beginning – Finnish contains just as many slang expressions as any other language, and has also borrowed words from English, Swedish and Russian. Oikeeta suomee: Suomen puhekielen sanakirja (Dictionary of Spoken Finnish, Gummerus) appears on the horizon to rescue you from Finnish-language oblivion. Its 7,000 entries show you how people really speak – this is where the secrets are revealed – and each one contains an English translation of the main word for good measure.

Opening at random, we find pearls such as lafka (store, enterprise), laiha lohtu (cold comfort), laiskamato (“lazy worm,” lazy person), lande (countryside), lälly (lame, dull), lämäri (slapshot) and lörpötellä (talk rubbish). The example sentences are even written in colloquial Finnish – picture an English dictionary full of “gonna” and “wanna.”

Learning Finnish can seem like a big job, but it’s perfectly doable. Let’s give the last word on the subject to the Oikeeta suomee dictionary. Under lunki (cool, calm, easy), you’ll find this: Ajattele sitä asiaa vaan ihan lunkisti äläkä hermoile. “Just consider things calmly – and take it easy!”

By Peter Marten, January 2012

Art apart: Top 8 Helsinki-area home museums

Sometimes you need to go beyond the big museums to find the real treasures. Step into the home of a renowned musician, architect, artist or national hero.

In and around the Finnish capital, the homes of historically prominent artists, architects and other cultural figures offer scenic settings and insight into artists’ lives. Here are our top choices.

Gallen-Kallela Museum

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Photo: Amanda Soila

A visit to Tarvaspää, the castle-like home and studio of Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865–1931), one of Finland’s foremost painters and graphic artists, becomes a trip to the very roots of the National Romantic style and the Finnish cultural awakening. Located on a hill overlooking a bay outside Helsinki, the house faces a beautiful forest-flanked sea view like something out of a Gallen-Kallela painting.

Gallen-Kallela himself designed the house, drawing on the Finnish National Romantic style and castles on the Continent. Stairs lead from a spacious atelier filled with natural light to a tower with views over woods and water. Some of the rooms have been preserved in their original state, and it’s easy to imagine Gallen-Kallela in his heyday entertaining groups of painters, writers and politicians.

Gallen Kallela Museum
Cafe Tarvaspää
On the map

Didrichsen Art Museum

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Photo: Amanda Soila

Founded by Danish businessman Gunnar Didrichsen (1903–1992) and his wife Marie-Louise (1913–1988), the Didrichsen Art Museum hosts one of the most fascinating private collections of modern art in Finland, including Finnish artists as well as Picasso, Kandinsky, Léger, Miró, Moore, Giacometti and Arp.

Situated just outside Helsinki on the island of Kuusisaari, Villa Didrichsen was designed by architect Viljo Revell to harmonise with the surrounding landscape and offers a magnificent view of the water. The garden is filled with sculpture – the biggest Henry Moore collection in the Nordic countries is casually divided between the yard and the living room. The museum also hosts Finland’s only collections of pre-Columbian and oriental art.

Didrichsen Art Museum
On the map

Gyllenberg Art Museum

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Photo: Amanda Soila

Just up the road from the Didrichsen, the Gyllenberg Art Museum contains one of the country’s most extensive private art collections, an impressive selection of Finnish and foreign works.

The former home of banker and art collector Ane Gyllenberg (1891–1977) and his wife Signe, Villa Gyllenberg is situated on Kuusisaari just west of Helsinki. Part of the family’s home has been preserved, with the furniture and paintings as they were during the Signe and Ane’s lifetime. The dining room is decorated with 16th- and 17th-century masterpieces by Titian, Tintoretto and others, while the sitting room is mainly dedicated to Finnish artists of the Golden Era.

The new extension, added in 1955, contains gallery space and one of the largest Helene Schjerfbeck collections in private ownership. Occasional Sunday concerts are also held there. The upper floor, where the couple’s bedroom and Ane’s study were located, now hosts special exhibitions.

Gyllenberg Art Museum
On the map

Aalto House

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Photo: Amanda Soila

The former home and studio of internationally renowned architect and designer Alvar Aalto (1898–1976) offers a treat for anyone interested in his functionalist style or a chance to peek into the life of Finland’s most famous architect. Designed by Aalto himself and built in 1936, Aalto House forms a unique architectural jewel that very few people had the chance to see when he and his family still lived.

The building, located in the Helsinki neighbourhood of Munkkiniemi, opened to the public in 2002 and experiences a constant stream of Finnish and foreign visitors.

The light-bathed atelier and the decor are almost unchanged. The distinct shapes and colours of Aalto vases, lamps and chairs are everywhere, highlighting the cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Aalto House
On the map

Halosenniemi Museum

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Photo: Halosenniemi

The wilderness studio and home of Finnish painter Pekka Halonen (1865–1933) showcases the life and work of this beloved artist of the Golden Era.

Halonen was a master portrayer of Finnish landscapes and people, and looking at the countryside around Lake Tuusula it’s easy to see the source of ideas and inspiration that helped him develop his distinctive style. Halonen himself designed the humble yet graceful timber house that came to be known as Halosenniemi (Halonen Point). Inside, the house is spacious and light, with Halonen’s paintings prominently displayed.

Halosenniemi Museum hosts various theme exhibitions showcasing Halonen’s art side by side with the work of his contemporaries and that of later generations of artists.

The beautiful route along Lake Tuusula used to be a real creative hub, where a number of Halonen’s contemporaries also maintained homes or studios; many of which are open to the public today. The most famous is undoubtedly Ainola, the home of composer Jean Sibelius, situated only a stone’s throw away.

Halosenniemi Museum
On the map

Ainola

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Photo: Ainola

The humble Ainola, home of the great Finnish composer Jean Sibelius (1865–1957) and his family, took many of his famous guests from abroad by surprise – they probably expected a castle. But the quiet house on the scenic shores of Lake Tuusula in Järvenpää gave the composer the peace and quiet he needed for his creative pursuits, far from the diversions of the city, while other artistic families living nearby provided a lively social circle.

Lars Sonck designed the timber-built National Romantic building, where Sibelius composed some of his most important works.

Ainola (open May–Sept)
On the map

Hvitträsk

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Photo: Markku Haverinen/Hvitträsk

A grand villa in the National Romantic style, Hvitträsk is the birthplace of many of Helsinki’s architectural treasures. At this location in Kirkkonummi near the Finnish capital, the celebrated trio of architects Herman Gesellius (1874–1916), Armas Lindgren (1874–1929) and Eliel Saarinen (1873–1950) drew up plans for Helsinki Railway Station, the National Museum of Finland and other projects.

Built between 1901 and 1903 out of logs and natural stone, the main building served as both an architectural office and a home. Guests included such esteemed figures as composer Jean Sibelius, artist Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Russian writer Maxim Gorky. Hvitträsk also became the boyhood home of world-famous architect Eero Saarinen, Eliel’s son, who went on to a stellar career, primarily in the US.

Part of Hvitträsk now operates as a museum, preserved in its original National Romantic style with ornamental wall paintings, colourful rugs and carved wooden furniture.

Hvitträsk (closed Jan–Feb)
On the map

Mannerheim Museum

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Photo: Amanda Soila

The former home of Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim (1867–1951), who served as military leader and President of Finland, now operates as a museum. It depicts his career and showcases his European and Asian travels and collections of art from significant Finnish painters. Situated in the Kaivopuisto district of Helsinki, the house offers a remarkable sea view.

With the exception of a few rooms converted for exhibition purposes, the home has been preserved in its original state. After the grandeur of the downstairs dining room, sitting room and library and the welcoming cosiness of the guestrooms, the bedroom is surprisingly spartan. It is the room of a soldier, containing only necessities, the view from the window the only visible luxury.

Guided tours of the museum are available in seven languages, providing insight into Mannerheim’s life and Finland’s history.

Mannerheim Museum
On the map

By Amanda Soila

Starry-eyed study of Finnish

Ready to take your Finnish to the next level? We look at three little volumes that will surely expand your Finnish vocabulary – and it will be practically painless.

So you’ve built up quite an impressive knowledge of Finnish. In fact, some time ago you stopped considering yourself a beginner and promoted yourself to intermediate. Your vocabulary is growing stronger all the time, and you know how to do more than just order beer and buy tram tickets.

However, how do you make the transition to that elusive next stage – the one where you truly grasp what people around you are talking about and really express yourself in conversation? Here are three dictionaries that will help you expand your knowledge of Finnish – and of Finnish culture, too.

Multilingual metaphors

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Cross-cultural cake: An expensive dessert might “cost strawberries” for a Finn, but an English speaker pays an arm and a leg.Photo: Visit Finland

If your mother tongue is English, Swedish, German, French or Spanish, then you’ll enjoy Kielikuvia ja fraaseja kuudella kielellä (Figures of Speech and Phrases in Six Languages, published by Gummerus). Ever decode a Finnish phrase but still fail to understand what it means? This book can help.

For example, you may realise that vetää nenästä translates directly to “pull by the nose,” but you might not comprehend, unless you have Kielikuvia to tell you, that it’s the equivalent of pulling someone’s leg in English. And if a Finn laittaa kaikki yhden kortin varaan (puts everything on one card), that person is putting all his or her eggs in one basket.

Amazingly, something that is täyttä hepreaa (complete Hebrew) in Finnish can simultaneously be all Greek to English speakers. And if something maksaa mansikoita (costs strawberries) for the Finns, that’s a bargain compared to what it costs for English speakers: an arm and a leg. Similarly, in Finnish you may joutua ojasta allikkoon (go from the ditch into the puddle), whereas English speakers must jump straight from the frying pan into the fire.

Express yourself

For systematically improving your vocabulary, a better bet may be Suomen kielen sanakirja maahanmuuttajille (Finnish Dictionary for Immigrants, Gummerus). It’s all in Finnish, so it doesn’t matter what your first language is.

Each entry contains a clearly written definition, followed by example sentences to show you how the word is used in context. Many entries include synonyms, antonyms and sayings.

If you look up rehkiä (toil), you’ll see the following (the English translations are ours): Kun joku rehkii, hän tekee liikaa töitä. (When someone toils, he or she does too much work.) We like the example sentence: Toimittaja rehkii pitkiä päiviä. (A journalist puts in long days.) And for good measure they add a synonym, raataa (drudge), and an antonym, laiskotella (laze around).

The authors admit in the foreword that “using a unilingual dictionary may seem strange to the reader at first, but it is worth it.” They continue, “The more students use the Finnish language, the more knowledgeable they become about the language and the better they can express themselves in Finnish.”

Thirst for success

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All “in the same boat”: This is one expression that is exactly the same in English and Finnish.Photo: Visit Finland

If you’re still thirsting for more definitions and figures of speech, take it to the next level with Suurella sydämellä ihan sikana – Suomen kielen kuvaileva fraasisanakirja (roughly: With Your Heart in It like Crazy: Dictionary of Finnish Figurative Phrases, Gummerus).

The foreword of this unilingual dictionary astutely notes that expressions “don’t just convey information, but also provide insights into a culture.” They also indicate feelings and moods. The definitions and example sentences help readers understand what the phrases mean and when they are used.

How about the verb mennä (to go)? In Finnish, things don’t “go to the dogs,” but something can mennä poskelleen (go on its cheek), mennä aivan penkin alle (go completely under the bench) or mennä puihin (go to the trees), all of which mean “to fail.” However, if things mennä putkeen (go into the pipe) or mennä nappiin (go to the button), then you’ve succeeded.

You need look only as far as the first letter of the alphabet to find your first ahaa-elämys (“aha experience,” meaning a flash of realisation) – and the rest of the book is full of them.

By Peter Marten, November 2011

Surname stories: Land of the –nens

The most common Finnish-language surnames include Korhonen, Virtanen, Nieminen, Mäkinen, Hämäläinen, Koskinen, Heikkinen and Järvinen. Yes, this land loves its –nen suffix, a sure way to recognise a Finnish surname.

More than a third of all Finns have surnames ending in -nen. Though the Finnish suffix –nen is normally a diminutive, in surnames it more often signifies belonging to a place where a family lived. Virtanen could literally mean “small stream,” but the surname was devised to mean a family living near a stream. Mäkinen, literally “small hill,” correspondingly meant the family from the hill.

“Many families chose this kind of surname made of a natural feature with the suffix –nen in the Finnish national romantic period of the 19th century,” explains Sirkka Paikkala, who studies Finnish surnames at the Research Institute for Languages of Finland.

“The –nen suffix was originally from Finland’s Eastern surname tradition, but in the 1800s such surnames were also adopted in the West and that’s why they are now so widespread,” she says.

The rivals: Virtanen and Korhonen

There has recently been extremely tight competition for top ranking between the two most common Finnish surnames, Virtanen and Korhonen (the equivalents to Smith and Jones). But the Korhonens now seem to be taking a lead, by either breeding faster or living longer. In July 2014 the Finnish Population Register Centre announced that there are 23,380 Korhonens, compared to 23,141 Virtanens.

In third place we find Mäkinen with 21,113, and quickly catching up are the Nieminens in fourth place with 21,054. The obscure origins of the top surname Korhonen may be related to deafness or a word meaning “old man.”

The non-nen surnames

A basket full of bilberries on a cliff surrounded by heathers.

Many surnames reflect the Finns’ close relationship to nature, for example a popular surname Kanerva (heather).Photo: Visit Finland

But it’s not all about the –nens. Many western Finnish surnames end in the suffix –la or –lä, which indicated association with a place (for example Mäkelä is connected to a hill) or a farmstead (Juhani Mattila indicates “Juhani from Matti’s farm”). “Some surnames also relate to a profession, like Seppälä for someone from a smithy,” Paikkala adds.

Many surnames reflect the Finns’ close relationship to nature. Examples include Kanerva (heather), Nummi (moor), Kivi (stone), Niemi (peninsula) and Halla (frost). In one Helsinki suburb a Mr Susi (wolf) lives next door to the Sikanen family, whose name can be understood as meaning “little pigs.”

Past and present trends

Cliffs and evergreens, with a lake and small islands in the background.

During early 20th century many Finns translated their former Swedish-language names into Finnish; for example writer Alexis Stenvall changed his name to Aleksis Kivi (Aleksis Rock).Photo: Kimmo Mäntylä/Lehtikuva

Paikkala’s book Se tavallinen Virtanen (which translates roughly to “The Average Smith”) is an extensive study of Finnish surnames in the period 1850–1921 when many families first officially adopted hereditary surnames. During the Fennicisation movement of the early 20th century many Finns translated their former Swedish-language names into Finnish. Writer Alexis Stenvall changed his name to Aleksis Kivi, and the renowned painter Axel Waldemar Gallén became Akseli Gallen-Kallela.

But Paikkala enthusiastically explains that her work is not all about digging into dusty archives: “I often have to deal with email or phone enquiries when people are looking for the etymology of a surname, or feel they need a completely new surname.”

Some unusual surnames with obscure origins have strange meanings in modern Finnish, including Kiimamaa (land in heat), Patja (mattress), Makkara (sausage), Kaalinpää (cabbage head), Punkki (mite), Romu (junk), and Hikipää (sweaty head).

A pile of cabbages.

Some unusual surnames with obscure origins have strange meanings in modern Finnish, including Kaalinpää (cabbage head).Photo: Kimmo Mäntylä/Lehtikuva

According to Paikkala, a new trend is discernible among newlyweds. “Couples planning marriage look for a totally new surname to indicate the beginning of a new life. This phenomenon started in the 1990s after Finnish laws were changed to allow both women and men to choose their surname.”

However, upon marriage about 80 percent of Finnish women still assume their husband’s surname or combine their maiden name and their husband’s name. Combining Finnish surnames in this way opens up amusing possibilities. If Mr Pulska (fat) marries Miss Orava (squirrel), he might become Pulska-Orava (fat squirrel). And if Miss Nälkäinen (hungry), marries Mr Karhu (bear), she could become Nälkäinen-Karhu (hungry bear).

By Carina Chela and Fran Weaver, June 2011; updated July 2014

Vegetarian inroads into Christmas dinner

Christmas has the potential to be a compromising time for vegetarians – in most Finnish families the table bears a large cut of ham. Years of work by vegetarian cooks are helping nontraditional foods make inroads into the menu.

While perhaps not eager to consider herself in a grandmotherly role, Tuija Ruuska admits that she must be one of the longest-serving vegetarian cooks in the business in Helsinki – and that probably means all of Finland, too. “But you have to include my partner Hanni Brotherus here in Kasvisbaari for that title. We share the honours in this restaurant.” At the restaurant-cafeteria of the Finnish Academy of Fine Arts, the team serves over 200 meals every day to students and faculty; all dishes are vegetarian.

“The thing that has changed fundamentally in Finland is attitudes towards choice,” Ruuska declares. While even the most conventional restaurants now supply at least one vegetarian option, more committed establishments like Ruuska’s offer only vegetarian fare – and always provide an alternative for vegans, who include dairy products and eggs on the list of things they don’t eat.

Vegetarian perspectives

For many years Helsinki’s only dedicated vegetarian restaurant, Kasvis, was located near St John’s Church, just south of the city centre. Ruuska and many other budding young restaurateurs passed through the establishment. It definitely had an alternative feel with its simple food and hand-written menus.

Today a wide variety of Finnish and ethnic restaurants all over the city offer daily vegetarian selections. A handful of restaurants specialise in serving a strictly non-meat selection at lunchtime: Zucchini in the heart of Helsinki (Fabianinkatu 4) and Silvoplee in Hakaniemi (Toinen linja 7) both offer Christmas dishes in December.

Ruuska’s Kasvisbaari presents a genuinely alternative menu of festive food during the pre-Christmas season. This year it features marinated beans, nut loaves and some very traditional Finnish foods:

“Traditional Finnish vegetable casseroles – potato, carrot or turnip – are very heavy and use large quantities of cream and even sugar to pep them up,” she says. “We rely on soy products and careful spicing to bring them alive. But we still serve them alongside normal Finnish Christmas dishes like rosolli (a light beet and vegetable pickle) and the traditional dessert of rice porridge.”

A new way to look at eating

For Lloyd Polack, a Helsinki chef who hails from the West Midlands in the UK and from the Caribbean, Christmas forms a time to be creative and offer more exotic European and Caribbean dishes. After training in the UK, Polack worked in continental hotels and restaurants before settling in Finland. He, too, got his start at Kasvis.

A freelance chef and caterer nowadays, Polack can indulge his creative culinary spirits, both at home and on the job. Leafing through old menus, he points out dishes that remain popular, including vegan banana muffins and ginger carrot and bean paté. “Christmas is a good time to be experimental while following the traditional patterns – people are looking for something special,” he declares.

At home he has learned how to extend his range to include some very local, but not so typical, traditional ingredients. “My mother-in-law is a real forager, so we have always had plenty of Finnish mushrooms, which I had to learn to use at Christmas, too. And I must admit, my sons Pablo and Daniel have been my main guinea pigs!”

Always proud to be known as being “clever with cakes,” Polack sees higher demand for biscuits and sweet desserts at Christmas. For him, it’s not enough to consider ethical and ecological issues only when preparing food – he also delivers by bicycle whenever possible. “With city traffic nowadays it’s often quicker in the centre to deliver by bike, but when the snow comes I leave it at home.”

So if you see delivery cyclist with a red hat wobbling through the streets of Helsinki this holiday season, it’s not Santa Claus. It’s another order of vegetarian Christmas goodies on the way to discerning customers.

By Anthony Shaw

The humble Number One: Finland

Given that most Finns won’t blow their own horn – it’s culturally de rigueur to downplay personal achievements – we’re going to do some serious bragging.

If there’s one characteristic that applies to almost all Finns, it’s extreme modesty. Finns don’t boast about their own achievements; often they don’t even mention them. You might spend an entire evening at a dinner party socialising with someone – only to find out later that they hold a world championship title for downhill skiing, invented a key component of the mobile phone or have accomplished some other “minor” achievement.

World-class achievements

Finland, a small country of 5.3 million people, consistently tops many of the world’s best-of charts. In August 2010, Newsweek declared that Finland is the best country in the world. They based their conclusion on five criteria: health, economic dynamism, education, political environment and quality of life. “Despite the long winter, Finland is a pretty great place to be – the best actually,” Newsweek wrote.

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Photo: Anna Dammert

In December of 2007, Finland once again took the Number One spot in the OECD’s PISA (Programme for International Student Assessment), a test of the abilities of a sample of 15-year-old secondary school students, followed by Hong Kong in second place and Canada in third. The PISA survey, based on tests carried out in 2006 in 57 countries that together account for nearly 90 per cent of world GDP, is the most comprehensive and rigorous international yardstick of secondary-school students’ attainments. The results of the 2009 PISA are announced in December 2010.

In 2006, when Finland hosted the EU presidency, Economist magazine described Finland as being “first in the World Economic Forum’s list of most competitive countries, second in its business-competitiveness index, first in the OECD’s world ranking of education performance; [and having the] second-highest share of R&D spending in the European Union,” while pointing out that the Nordic nation is reversing its demographic decline with one of the highest fertility rates in Europe.

You have our word

Finns are known for their honesty, and the country always places at or close to the top of the list of the world’s least corrupt countries, published annually by the Berlin-based organisation Transparency International.

Another strong point is technology. Finland’s mobile phone market is one of the world’s most developed. Ninety-eight percent of households have mobile phones. There are more mobile phones than fixed network subscriptions. It’s no surprise, then, that the world’s leading manufacturer of mobile devices, Nokia, was founded and is still headquartered in Finland. It’s estimated that 11 to 12 Nokia devices are sold every second.

A leader in internet use

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Photo: Tekes/Pasi Hytti

Seventy-five percent of Finnish households own a personal computer, 70 percent have an internet connection and 62 percent broadband; 78 percent own a digital television.

Not only is Finland one of the leading countries in internet use, the Los Angeles Times wrote in June 2008 that Finland is the world’s safest internet country. Based on a study by anti-virus company McAfee, domains ending in “.fi” are the least likely to cause security problems for users.

Finland has also received accolades for its innovative use of the world wide web in its public library system, yet another area in which Finland holds world records. Finland has a literacy rate of 100 percent and the highest number of registered book borrowers per capita.

Quality of life

Finland has a high standard of living and one of the world’s best functioning welfare systems. Education and healthcare are virtually free and equality is not just a buzzword: Finland’s president (Tarja Halonen) and prime minister (Mari Kiviniemi) are women, and women ministers outnumber men in government, making Finland the most female-dominated government in the world.

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Photo: Centre Party

Babies are well taken care of. In 2007, Finland’s infant mortality rate of 3.52 deaths for every 1,000 births was one of the lowest in the world according to the World Health Organisation. Paid maternity and paternity leaves are standard benefits, and organised childcare is largely paid for by the state.

On average, Finns are entitled to five weeks of paid holidays a year. And while they are avid travelers, many enjoy spending their holiday time in the Finnish archipelago, which is considered the biggest in the world when measured by the number of islands in it – more than 20,000. Finland is also known as “the land of a thousand lakes.” Actually, there are 187,888 lakes. The 338,000-square-kilometre country also has more islands than any other country in the world.

Forest covers 70 percent of Finland’s land area, the highest proportion in the world. It is not surprising that the country is one of the top exporters of forest products. In exports of paper and paperboard Finland is second in the world, after Canada. Many of the world’s eminent newspapers and magazines are produced on Finnish paper.

A few famous Finns

Finns have long excelled at sports, and set many world records in areas such as running, skiing and race car driving. In proportion to its population, Finland is the world’s second-most successful country in the Olympic medal statistics: from the Summer Olympics, Finland has taken home the most medals per capita. In motor racing, Kimi Räikkönen was the Formula One World Champion in 2007.

The arts scene is also generously represented by Finns. Among those well-known internationally are composer and conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, currently the principal conductor and artistic advisor of the London’s Philharmonia Orchestra, and opera singers Monica Groop and Karita Mattila. Mattila’s appearance in Salome at New York’s Metropolitan Opera in 2004 caused a sensation and her subsequent performance in Katya Kabanova garnered the following praise in the New York press: “When the history of the Metropolitan Opera….is written, Karita Mattila will deserve her own chapter.”

And that’s just the tip of the Finnish achievement iceberg. The list goes on, but naturally, as Finns, we’re too modest to continue.

By Katja Pantzar, June 2008, updated September 2010

Finnish traditions stay strong in the US

As Finns prepare for the holiday season, we visit the US to see how Finnish customs and Christmas traditions are enduring in small-town Minnesota.

In northern Minnesota, Finnish roots run deep. Finns began emigrating here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the lumber and mining industries were booming. A second wave of immigrants came to mining areas like the town of Virginia, Minnesota after the Second World War.

“Times were hard in Finland, and travel became available again,” says Eila Ivonen, who came to Minnesota in 1953 to meet her grandfather, who had arrived in 1913. She was planning to return to the University of Helsinki, where she had been admitted, but fell in love with an American and decided to stay. “That’s kind of the typical immigrant story,” Ivonen says. “Most of them intended to go back, but something happened.”

Centres of Finnish activity

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Heather Surla (right) and her friends help themselves to Karelian pies and other delicacies at Kaleva Hall.Photo: Robert Downs

Finnish immigrants looked to assimilate while still preserving their heritage, and those that celebrated Finnish culture near Virginia did it through a place called Kaleva Hall.

The hall has been the centre of Finnish activity in Virginia for more than 100 years. Constructed in 1906 by the Finnish Temperance Society, the hall has acted as a boarding house, a dance hall, a gathering place for the Finnish socialist party and the site of Sunday services for the Unitarian Church (which was also founded by Finns).

The hall was especially important to those who spoke little English. Plays and dances routinely filled its stage, and throughout the 20th century it remained a place to socialise, read or spend a Saturday night.

“My mother wants on her gravestone with my father: ‘They danced a thousand miles,’” says Belinda Brunfelt, a third-generation Finn. “When I was a child, there were Finnish dances here every weekend.”

Now, second- and third-generation Finns are carrying on the practices that their elders taught them. While it gets harder with every generation to pass traditions on, many Finnish descendants are making sure their customs continue. Kaleva Hall forms a home for the local chapter of the Knights and Ladies of Kaleva, a Finnish American service and social organisation.

Holiday traditions

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Third-generation Finnish American Belinda Brunfelt, shown here playing the kantele, says, “When I was a child, there were Finnish dances here every weekend.”Photo: Robert Downs

Up north, the Christmas season officially begins with a ceremony at Kaleva Hall, where a man dressed as the mayor of Turku reads the proclamation of Christmas Peace – in both Finnish and English. This mirrors the official declaration ceremony, which happens in Turku on Christmas Eve Day.

On Christmas Eve, graveyards are illuminated by the glow of candles wrapped in bowls of carved ice. Revellers freeze buckets of water until almost completely solid, then dump the remaining liquid from the middle. Candles are placed inside the hollow ice bowl and the flickering orbs illuminate the cemeteries.

Some try to read their own fortune on New Year’s Eve. In a ladle they melt a bit of tin, lower the hot liquid it into water and interpret the metal shapes that emerge from the incompatible mixture as the tin instantly cools and solidifies. The Ladies of Kaleva see their glasses of murky water half full: “Our futures are always bright,” Ivonen says.

The art of being Finnish

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Sharon Panula demonstrates the craft of “lastu,” in which special-ordered pieces of wood from Finland are soaked, cut and shaped into ornaments.Photo: Robert Downs

Sharon Panula is a full-blooded Finnish American, and practices the art of lastu, or wood shaving. She makes mobiles out of special strapping ordered from Finland, soaking the wood in warm water until it is pliable enough to be shaped. Panula sells her beautiful hanging creations at craft sales to benefit the Ladies of Kaleva.

Belinda Brunfelt plays the Finnish national instrument, the kantele, best described as a type of zither or harp. Her collection of kanteles isn’t limited to just her five-, 10- and 15-string models – she also owns a 39-string chromatic concert kantele. She special-orders strings from Finland to keep her instruments sounding good. “The concert kantele is pretty darn hard to play,” she says after plucking a melancholy tune.

Finnish American recipes

We asked Heather Surla and her Finnish American friends in Virginia, Minnesota for a couple of their favourite recipes for Christmastime or other times of year. (For more see thisisFINLAND’s Christmas Cuisine page)

Ruth’s Pulla (pastry)

Makes 8 loaves of a traditional bready pastry – recipe may be halved or quartered for smaller batches.

4 cups (9.5 dl) milk, scalded
2 cups (4.5 dl) sugar
4 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon cardamom – measured, then ground
1 1/4 cup (3 dl) oleo (margarine suitable for baking)
4 tablespoons yeast
16–18 cups (38–42.5 dl) bread flour
4 eggs, beaten

Measure sugar, salt and cardamom into large bowl. Add scalded milk. While the mixture cools, mix yeast into a half cup warm water with 1 teaspoon sugar.

Melt oleo. Add beaten eggs to milk mixture. Beat with electric mixer. Add yeast and 8 cups flour to milk and egg mixture. Let rest five minutes. Add half of melted oleo. Beat.

Add 8 cups of flour by hand. Add remaining melted oleo. Knead 5–8 minutes. Cover and let rise for 90 minutes in warm place. Punch down. Let rise 30 minutes.

Grease eight nine-by-four-inch loaf pans. Divide dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll and braid into 8 loaves. Put in pans, let rise until dough reaches top of pans.

Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius) for 25–30 minutes. While cooling on rack, brush with mixture of hot coffee and sugar. Sprinkle with sugar. May be frozen. Great toasted.

Karjalanpaisti (Karelian Three-Meat Stew)

1 pound (450 g) beef, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
1 pound (450 g) lamb, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
1 pound (450 g) pork, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
5 medium onions
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1–2 bay leaves

In large, heavy casserole with a lid, layer meats with the onion, salt and allspice. Top with the bay leaves. Cover tightly and bake at 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 degrees Celsius) for five hours.

The meat will be very tender and will stew in its own juices. It is not necessary to add other broth or juice to the meat unless the dish is not well covered.

Remove bay leaves before serving. This broth is traditionally not thickened. Serve over boiled new potatoes.

By Robert Downs, November 2011