Helsinki is hot in Monocle survey

Temperatures reaching 30 Celsius, a clear blue sky and half the city stretched out on the grass of the Esplanade park to enjoy the sunshine – what better time for Helsinki to hear the news that it has claimed top spot in Monocle magazine’s 2011 Quality of Life Survey.

The Finnish capital has jumped from fifth position in Monocle’s 2010 survey, climbing above Zurich and Copenhagen in second and third places. The magazine praises Helsinki for “its fundamental courage to rethink its urban ambitions, and for possessing the talent, ideas and guts to pull it off”.

“We decided it was time for a new strategy,” says Tyler Brûlé, Monocle’s editor-in-chief, explaining how the survey shifted its emphasis this year. “The 2011 results focus not only on the nuts and bolts of the city, but also on the end product.” Quality of Life gives recognition for cities that don’t shut down at 10pm, for their balance between old-fashioned architecture and forward planning, and “ongoing criteria such as the amount of outdoor seating, green space and hours of sunshine”.

“Helsinki is on a roll,” says Brûlé. “Crime is low, unemployment rates sound, the education system world class, and the city’s food culture is thriving. Entrepreneurship and innovation is present in a young, skilled and technically proficient business culture. And the city’s hardware generally manages to perform like a dream.”

Launched in February 2007, Monocle is a premium media brand with magazine, web, broadcast and retail divisions and focusing on global affairs, business, culture and design.

Helsinki on a roll

By Tim Bird, June 2011
Photos by Amanda Soila

Learning, discovering: Study in Finland

There are many reasons why students come to Finland: to soak up the best education in Europe, to seek out new and unknown places, or by pure chance.

Visiting the main library in Turku: Many exchange students are impressed with the Finnish library system.

Visiting the main library in Turku: Many exchange students are impressed with the Finnish library system.Photo: Rebecca Libermann

Most foreign students don’t know very much about Finland and what makes people here tick. But after the initial culture shock – which is bigger for some than for others – most get the feel for it, settle in and have some fun. “I chose Finland as my exchange country because it’s so different from all the other countries I’ve already visited”, says media student Sabine. “And I’ve always heard that Finland is the best country in the world. I wanted to check out if it was true. Apart from that, I wanted to experience a long winter once in my life.” Austrian Sabine is one of the many exchange students who every year, thanks to Erasmus and other exchange programmes, study at Finland’s biggest university of applied sciences, Metropolia.

Metropolia enjoys a good reputation abroad. American design student Deanna followed her mentor, the Finnish designer Merita Soini, to the Helsinki university. “Merita taught a course at my college in Tennessee and we really had a great understanding about all things design. Also, Helsinki has been selected as the World Design Capital. Of course you’d feel drawn to a place that’s so infused with design.”

Students from all over the world

A year abroad can bring you lifelong friends from all over the world.

A year abroad can bring you lifelong friends from all over the world.Photo: Pilar Díaz (Erasmus student, Turku)

Finland prepares over 20,000 international students a year for their future, of which 9,000 are exchange students. German, French, Spanish and Italian students account for an especially large chunk of that. Also, according to the Centre for International Mobility (CIMO), more than 14,000 ordinary international students, mainly from Russia and China, study at Finnish universities and technical colleges. And although courses are normally taught in Finnish or Swedish, at least 300 are given in English.

Sarah hails from Tanzania. She’s a budding journalist and was sent to Finland by her university as a reward for good results. “I would so love to stay longer,” Sarah says about Metropolia. “I’m very impressed by the education system here and how well-equipped everything is, but also by how seriously everyone takes their studies. Also, here they focus more on the practical, rather than the theoretical, like in my country. And then there’s the way teaching staff and fellow students help you when you’ve got a problem. Afterwards you feel better and not like you’ve been put down.”

Deanna adds, “The teaching system here is very relaxed. It creates a good dynamic between lecturers and students.”

And Leandra, a German student from Hannover University, says: “Finland’s education system is the best in the world. It’s totally understandable why it’s always at the top of the PISA survey. Students also encounter reality here. You can let yourself go a little and be creative, and I find that makes learning fun.”

Pilar Díaz (left) of Spain bonded with the locals over a barbeque in Turku.

Pilar Díaz (left) of Spain bonded with the locals over a barbeque in Turku.Photo: Pilar Díaz (Erasmus student, Turku)

But there are also downsides. People who come from abroad are often not used to small classes and mellow teaching staff, as is the norm in Finland. The relationship between lecturers and students is more formal in other countries – more demanding. “We have specially organised classes for exchange students,” says Leandra, “so you can get to feel like you’re stuck in an ivory tower, where the teachers make everything super-easy and only ask the minimum of you.”

This criticism is more often heard from European students. At the same time, exchange students are not taught separately in all subjects.

Mood meter

The first-ever opinion poll among foreign students, conducted at the end of 2010 as part of an international comparison of 23 Finnish education institutions, showed that 89 percent of foreign students in “The Land of a Thousand Lakes” had good experiences.

They especially liked the high-tech equipment at the unis and technical colleges. At the same time, the high cost of living can cause serious problems for students from less wealthy countries with low stipends and families that can’t help them out.

Culture and climate shock

Many visitors are surprised and delighted to learn that you can walk across the ocean near Helsinki and many other locations in wintertime.

Many visitors are surprised and delighted to learn that you can walk across the ocean near Helsinki and many other locations in wintertime.Photo: Jakub Libiszewski/Erasmus student / UC London

In many countries exchange students keep mainly with their own kind, and there’s little contact with the natives. And in Finland students can experience challenges connecting with their Finnish counterparts.

“I never thought the difference between Germans and Finns was so big when it comes to shyness and protecting their private lives,” Leandra says. “I often felt like I came across as pushy, when I was just being my normal, cheerful, energetic self.”

Marianne from Namibia agrees, and says with a chuckle: “You know that you’ve acclimatised to Finland when you think someone who smiles at you in the street is drunk, mad or American. Social norms are different where I come from.”

Deanna from Tennessee also finds the Finns a little reserved. “It’s difficult to get close to a Finn, but once they warm up to you, they’re very nice, sincere and trustworthy. I find it inspiring to be with Finns. They’re much calmer than Americans, and they do what they say they will.”

And then there’s the weather. Many exchange students arrive in Finland in the middle of winter, and start their time skidding around Helsinki’s streets in shoes with no grip and shivering in a jacket that’s too thin. That’s how it was for Sarah: “I was totally stunned by the weather. In Tanzania it was around 40 degrees, and here it was all snow and ice.”

Finland is fun

You never know who you might run into in the Finnish countryside. Canadian Sareena McDonald conversed with a cow in Sysmä.

You never know who you might run into in the Finnish countryside. Canadian Sareena McDonald conversed with a cow in Sysmä.Photo: Sareena McDonald

Putting aside all coolness in the climate and the people, most exchange students don’t regret their time in Finland at all.

Sabine from Austria counts off the things that she loves about Finland: “The people, the food, the wonderful countryside, the impressive flora and fauna, the fact that Finland is a pioneer in the protection of nature and water, in gender policy, in healthy school meals and so much more.” She adds, “I’d like to come here again – not to study, but to spend my summer holidays.”

“Yes, yes, and again yes! I’d absolutely love to come again,” says Marianne from Namibia. “This country offers so many opportunities, and there’s so much to discover.” Almost all the Metropolia students I asked were unanimous: studying in Finland is fun!

By Rebecca Libermann, August 2011

Eat Finland!

Finnish culinary culture is infused with the natural flavours of the northern latitudes. It tells the story of a people who went from forest livelihoods to active interaction with neighbouring countries.

The tale progresses to the newest international trends and the height of excellence. Finnish professionals have placed Finland on the gastronomic world map and made the capital, Helsinki, one of the globe’s most intriguing, trend-setting cities.

Genuine flavour

A woman picking chantarelles.

The golden chanterelle is the favourite mushroom of many Finns. Appearing earlier than many other mushrooms, the first chanterelles are picked at midsummer to accompany new potatoes, with the season continuing all the way into the game and mushroom dishes of autumn.Photo: Promotion Programme for Finnish Food Culture (SRE)/Imagebank

The brilliant array of flavours stems from our four distinct seasons. Gently braised root vegetables and meat casseroles are a wonderful way to counteract the chill of winter. The spring sun – and steaming soups – melt even the most stubborn frost, with rhubarb and nettles the first delicacies to appear in the new growing season. Delicious “new potatoes,” harvested when small and tasty, are a staple of the dining table throughout early summer. Berries and mushrooms ripen for picking as summer progresses, while autumn is the time to store nature’s bounty for winter. Wild game and fresh fish provide seasonal variation throughout the year. It’s always a good season for Finnish food!

In Finland, nature produces food that is bursting with healthiness and genuine flavour. Bilberries from the wooded wilderness, cranberries from wild wetlands, rye from fields that have known winter frost − Finland is packed with superfoods!


Culinary Finland calling

Kitchen staff of restaurant Savoy posing outside.

Innovation is also abundant outside the kitchen. Restaurant Savoy has begun rooftop gardening in the centre of Helsinki. The kitchen staff and customers love the fresh herbs and vegetables grown on the roof that is also home to a community of honeybees.Photo: Royal Restaurants

Finnish international-level chefs are taking their cuisine to the world and inviting the world’s foodies to our tables.

Our innovators blend arctic ingredients; traditional preservation methods and cooking techniques; heritage dishes; and inspiration gained around the world to create experiences that will impress the most seasoned of gourmands.

In this approach to food, originality stems from small producers who boast premium-quality products with a unique touch: reindeer, a huge selection of wild mushrooms, indigenous Finnish cattle, intensely flavourful root vegetables, lush greens and tangy berries, to name a few. Artisan bakeries, cheese makers and breweries help restaurants create fantastic cuisine in which the authentic flavours of the ingredients shine through.

A classy set table; Uspenski Cathedral visible through the window.

There are opportunities for fantastic fine dining at numerous classy restaurants. The capital, Helsinki, is dotted with them, but there are unforgettable food experiences galore elsewhere in Finland as well.Photo: Royal Restaurants

Finnish restaurants cultivate great respect for tradition. Would you like some Baltic herring breaded in rye flour and fried in butter to a glorious crispness? Or how about elk or venison with roasted root vegetables? Perhaps a slice of bilberry tart with vanilla sauce?

Restaurants are also constantly reinterpreting old favourites and developing new dishes. Fantastic whitefish (Finnish lavaret) may be seasoned with organic herbs grown on the restaurant’s roof terrace, while beetroot is no longer just pickled but presented in a myriad of exciting ways. Those who want something out of the ordinary should also look out for some of the sensational liquorice desserts our restaurants have on offer.


Winds of change

A tray with different small dishes.

Traditional Finnish flavours are given modern takes and making new friends at restaurants.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

Culinary culture is changing in Finland as it is all over the world, with food trends such as the organic and local food movements; food that enhances wellbeing; and exploration of new ingredients and ideas.

The entire food chain is moving towards more sustainable choices. Organic farming is widespread in Finland and the market is developing steadily. A rediscovered passion for local food has caught on rapidly. Finns are the third-biggest per capita consumers of Fairtrade products in the world. Carbon and water footprint labelling is being introduced in food packaging.

Elderly women in a row by a table making Karelian pasties.

The art of making Karelian pasties is one of the old culinary skills that is still very much alive in Finland. Rice, or more traditionally barley, is baked inside a very thin rye crust. It takes some practice to perfect the finger skills required for the folding technique.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

The flow of geographical changes also influences our food culture. The roots of traditional Finnish cuisine lie in Karelia in the east and on the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia in the west. Regional differences have become smaller but are still readily apparent. From our eastern heritage come oven-baked casseroles and the traditional delicacies laid out to celebrate Easter. Western traditions include soups and many of the dishes enjoyed during the biggest culinary feast of the year, Christmas. Reindeer from the northern Finnish region of Lapland forms a treat that is also appreciated in the southern areas of the country, and Karelian pasties have become a nationwide favourite as well as a link with history (part of Karelia was ceded to the Russians after the Winter War of 1939 and 1940).

One of the easiest ways to differentiate the regions is the local style of bread: unleavened flatbreads in the north, sweet-flavoured loaves in the west, sourdough rye bread and pasties in the east, and islander’s bread in the coastal areas of the south. The latter is a black, sweet loaf that keeps for ages.

A chicken burger made with rye bread.

The epitome of Finnish food culture − rye bread − is acquiring new forms.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

Changes in our lifestyle also affect our food culture. Everyday life is a lot less physically strenuous than it used to be, so instead of creamy milk many opt for lighter alternatives and watch their sugar intake. As microwave ovens, pre-prepared food and eating out in restaurants became commonplace, time previously devoted to cooking was freed up for other activities. At the same time, cooking has become a popular hobby and is inspiring a young generation of foodies to spend time in the kitchen.

International influences can be seen in the wide selection of ethnic restaurants, but Finnish creativity has also transformed many foreign styles into something new. Eclectic treats well worth tasting include barley risotto, reindeer carpaccio, Finnish shiitake mushrooms or sapas (Finnish tapas – the “s” comes from Suomi, the Finnish word for “Finland”).


Symphony of wild nature

A plate with wild herbs and flowers.

Finland’s natural environment is very lush and rich during the summer. Collecting wild herbs is a component of ancient food knowledge that has become part of the food trends of recent years. Today many restaurants even use wild herbs that their chefs have picked themselves.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

For many Finns and foreigners, the most exciting Finnish food adventures have their origins in the wild. Unforgettable experiences can be conjured up from berries, mushrooms, freshwater fish and game.

Everyone can access nature’s local superfoods in Finland. The traditional Finnish legal concept of “every person’s right” allows anyone to go hiking and to collect berries and mushrooms almost anywhere, as long as they respect the environment and landowners. Bilberries, lingonberries, chanterelles and boletus mushrooms are greatly savoured all year long. Many Finns pick wild berries and freeze them instead of buying them at grocery stores – a habit that is a source of wonder for many foreigners.

People squatting in the forest picking lingonberries.

Wild arctic bilberries and lingonberries are bursting with flavour and health-promoting nutrients. An outing to pick berries is also soothing for the soul.Photo: Rodeo/P. Jauhiainen

Our thousands of lakes offer tasty freshwater fish, and the Baltic Sea offers a source of ocean fish varieties. A fishing licence is easy to obtain, which means many people can enjoy fresh fish. At holiday homes and summer cottages – another special feature of Finland accessible to most of the population – people prepare fish on the barbecue or in a smoker. Special seasons exist for various seafood delicacies: Early autumn means boisterous crayfish parties, and the winter is the time to enjoy burbot, as well as roe with blinis, Russian-style buckwheat pancakes. Ice-fishing – dropping a line through a hole in a frozen lake or ocean – forms a unique experience to try if you visit Finland in the winter.

A man standing by a lake untangling a fishing line.

Finland has thousands of lakes that offer a plentiful catch of fish. At the summer cabin, fishing equipment is conveniently available, and preparing and eating the fish is a breeze after a successful fishing trip.Photo: Plugi

Many households enjoy meat from game hunted by family members. Mostly this means elk, but it can also be wild reindeer, hare, mallard or wood pigeon. In Finnish Lapland, reindeer herders own groups of animals that roam the fells.

A woman filling her water bottle from a spring.

In Lapland hikers do not need to carry water. There are clear mountain springs for a refreshing drink wherever you go.Photo: Visit Finland/Marja Pirilä

Clean water forms a source of great pride for the Finns. Accessible groundwater can be found in almost every part of Finland. It’s utilised by homeowners and waterworks, and can usually be consumed without any treatment. Other sources of drinking water include lakes, of which Finland possesses more than 188,000. The liquid passes through purification treatment before use in homes and restaurants.

Finnish bilberries have many fans in Japan, boletus mushrooms are popular in Italy and birch sap is exported to France. Great demand exists for wild-harvested produce around the world.


The world’s northernmost agriculture

A harvester at work on a grain field.

Agriculture is in capable hands in northern latitudes. The short growing season keeps farmers busy during planting and harvest alike.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

No other country in the world possesses farmland that stretches this far north. Finland’s short summer and long winter pose challenges for those growing crops or raising livestock. In earlier days that meant a shortage of food in the winter. Nowadays it means creative solutions and quality food.

The growing season is short. The entire cultivation process has to be completed two months faster than in the warmer south. Autumn harvests need to take place swiftly, within just a few weeks, before winter sets in.

Cows in snow.

During winter, fields rest beneath a cover of snow, but many cows enjoy these white pastures, too.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

The light of the long summer days, the warmth of the Gulf Stream and unique local plant varieties make fast growth possible. The amount of solar radiation received overall in Finland during the growing season is even greater than in continental Europe. Growth is also helped by the fact that in summer it is rarely too hot or dry, and there is always enough water available for irrigation. Winter frosts effectively destroy some of the pests and slow down the growth of many weeds.

Another aspect that makes the growing season special is the great temperature difference between day and night. Herbs become greatly aromatic, and berries are packed with nutrients.

A pile of carrots and spring onions.

There is a bountiful supply of Finnish vegetables available in the autumn.Photo: Vastavalo/Tuula Roos

Finns are innovative developers of greenhouse practices. To create energy-efficient ways of growing vegetables, a lot of research has been put into reducing energy consumption. The resulting innovative methods mean that now greenhouse-grown cucumbers consume one-third less energy than a few decades ago.

There is no need for artificial pesticides in greenhouse cultivation, either. In the future eco-efficiency will play an even greater role. Urban cultivation will bring greenhouse production close to city consumers and may produce energy for local residents, as well as utilising surplus heat from nearby homes.


Top expertise for safety and health

A person shopping at a specialist shop.

Organic and local produce have become staple choices among Finnish shoppers. Most is sold by ordinary supermarkets, but lots of new specialist shops have appeared. Often found in city centres, these shops offer urban foodies products made by artisanal producers in the countryside.Photo: SRE/Imagebank

Finnish food is the safest in the world. This excellence is based on high-quality agricultural ingredients. Strict hygiene procedures set the standard for the entire food chain.

Premises and equipment are meticulously cleaned, temperatures are kept at optimal levels and critical functions are subject to special monitoring. So you can enjoy eggnog made from fresh eggs, or allow your kids to scrape the mixing bowl to taste some cake batter.

Food allergies are taken seriously. Those suffering from lactose intolerance will find plenty of reliably labelled low-lactose and lactose-free dairy products in ordinary shops. There are gluten-free bakery products for those suffering from coeliac disease. In many restaurants, compatibility with special dietary requirements is indicated on the menu, and if not, the waiter will be able to provide the information.

A cup of cappuccino beside cartons of lactose free milk.

Lactose intolerance is fairly common in Finland. Since we are a nation of milk drinkers, there is a wide selection of lactose-free dairy products available.Photo: Valio

Functional foods represent the scientific zenith of health-promoting edibles. These scientifically researched products have special positive effects in addition to their conventional nutritional properties. The first Finnish functional food product to conquer the world was the tooth-friendly sweetener xylitol. It was followed by products that are good for the stomach, cholesterol levels and blood pressure.

Expertise in special diet products plays an important role in exports. Finnish lactose-free dairy products have gained a firm foothold in Sweden in recent years, and the conquest of America has begun. Italian sufferers of coeliac disease can enjoy pizza made in Finland. Finnish functional food products are sold in dozens of countries around the world.

New research is progressing all the time. One particularly interesting field of study seeks to combine bio-, nano- and information technologies. Technology applications are already being utilised for purposes such as weight management.

Above all, safe and healthy food is founded upon day-to-day cooperation between researchers, government authorities and the food industry, and upon the wise choices that consumers make.


Have a nice meal!

Fish cooking on open fire.

The heat of a campfire and the rustling of trees make a fish meal something very special.Photo: Rodeo/Juha Tuomi

The place to go for the best Finnish food is, of course, Finland. Whether enjoyed in the middle of the wilderness or at a classy restaurant, a Finnish meal always forms a wonderful experience for Finns and visitors alike.

On a nature trail or camping trip, sausages or newly caught perch taste perfect when grilled on an open fire and followed by a cup of freshly brewed coffee. If sitting on a tree stump in the middle of a dense forest feels slightly too exotic, there are plenty of well-equipped hiking areas with campfire sites set up for you. Or you can go for the easiest option and book a wilderness excursion with a guide.

A plate with a rack of lamb and vegetables.

At gourmet restaurants you will find fabulous Finnish flavours served on your plate.Photo: Royal Restaurants

Lapland, the Finnish far north, presents an excellent location for taking in the beauty of nature. Local reindeer herders will take you to the fells to sample charred salmon, reindeer sauté and other delicacies. The best way to quench you thirst is with a gulp of sparkling clean water straight from a mountain stream or woodland spring. If you head for the islands or inland waters, you get to experience fish prepared in a multitude of ways, while numerous farm holiday providers offer traditional dishes in a rural setting. Visit a manor house restaurant to sample classic dishes and buffet tables that the gentry used to enjoy. You need look no further than many urban restaurants for a rustic meal or home-style food. Helsinki is the easiest place to find the very top of gourmet excellence, but plenty of fine dining experiences are also available elsewhere in Finland.

Finnish food can be found here and there around the world. Cheeses, alcoholic beverages, butter, pork and chocolate form our main culinary exports. Check your local supermarket shelves and you may be able to spot Finnish thin crisp rye bread, genuine dairy milk chocolate, organic muesli with Finnish organic oats or gluten-free frozen baguettes.

Are you inspired to have a go at making a Finnish meal? Check the internet for recipes in English and impress your family and friends.

Enjoy your meal!


Recipes

Top-notch pikeperch

A pikeperch baked whole.

Photo: Simply Scandinavian/Kimmo Saira

  • 1 pikeperch (zander), weighing around 1.5 kg, cleaned and scaled
  • 300 ml double cream
  • 1 spring onion
  • dill
  • 150 ml white wine
  • 100 ml milk
  • 100 ml fish stock
  • 60 g butter
  • salt
  • white pepper

Chop the onion and fry lightly in butter. Set aside to cool. Chop the dill finely and mix the onion in a few drops of white wine.

Rinse the pikeperch in cold water. Make two slashes lengthwise into the back of the fish. Place the fish on its belly in an ovenproof dish. Season with salt and pepper. Put the mix of onion and dill into the slashes. Pour the rest of the white wine over the fish and cook in the oven at 160 ⁰C for 20 minutes.

Place a saucepan on low heat and put in the rest of the butter, the cream, fish stock and milk. Remove the fish from the oven and pour the creamy stock over it. Cook in the oven at 170 ⁰C for another 50 minutes. Baste the fish with the stock every 15 minutes. Decorate with fresh dill. Serve with new potatoes.

Recipe source: Simply Scandinavian*

Bilberry pie (Mustikkakukko)

Blueberry pie-like dessert with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Photo: Pirkka Magazine

Mustikkakukko is a traditional dessert from eastern Finland. It combines the delicate taste of the bilberry and the robust energy of rye. Rye and bilberries are health-enhancing.

For the dough:

  • 250 g butter, softened
  • 150 ml sugar
  • 400 ml rye flour (available from health food shops all over the world)
  • 100 ml wheat flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder

For the filling:

  • 1 l bilberries or blueberries
  • 100 ml sugar

Mix the butter and sugar. Mix the rye flour, wheat flour and baking powder and add to the sugar and butter mixture. Press about 2/3 of the dough onto the base and sides of a deep-sided oven dish.

Add fresh or frozen bilberries. (If you are using frozen bilberries, add 1 dessert spoon of potato starch.) Sprinkle sugar over the bilberries.Cover the bilberries with the rest of the dough.

Bake for about an hour at 200 ºC. Allow to cool for a while and serve with vanilla ice cream, custard or whipped cream.

Salmon soup

A bowl of salmon soup.

Photo: Pirkka Magazine

  • 500 g salmon fillet, skinned
  • 2 carrots
  • 6 potatoes
  • 2 onions
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 10 allspice berries
  • 1 l fish stock or water
  • salt and black pepper
  • 25−50 ml fresh dill, chopped

Peel and chop the vegetables. Cut the salmon fillet into cubes. Bring the fish stock or water to the boil and add the seasonings and vegetables. Boil until the vegetables are almost done. This will take around 15 minutes depending of the size of the chunks. Add the fish and simmer for a couple of minutes until cooked. Check the taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Sprinkle with dill.

Many people in Finland prefer their salmon soup creamy. Follow the above recipe but cut the volume of water or fish stock down to 800 ml. Add 200 ml of cream after the salmon and bring the soup to the boil. To finish, sprinkle with dill.

You can replace some of the potatoes with parsnip and chopped leek and use chives with or instead of dill to season the soup.

Vorschmack with potato salad and beetroot crisps

A plate of Vorschmack and two schnapps.

Vorschmack is a dish that originates from central and eastern Europe. It found its way into the hearts and onto the dining tables of Finns when it was made popular by the Finnish war hero, Marshal Mannerheim. He enjoyed this favourite dish of his with a spiced schnapps that later became known as “the Marshal’s schnapps”.Photo: Simply Scandinavian/Kimmo Saira

For the vorschmack:

  • 1 kg boneless lamb
  • 200 g beef, such as silverside
  • 50 g pickled herring
  • 50 g fillets of anchovy
  • 2 large onions
  • 300 ml beef stock
  • 100 ml tomato purée
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • white pepper

For the potato salad:

  • 400 g waxy potatoes
  • 200 g Russian-style pickled gherkins
  • 20 ml Russian-style sourcream (smetana)
  • clear honey

For the beetroot crisps:

  • 200 g medium-sized beetroots
  • 20 ml cooking oil

Remove membranes and fat from the lamb and the beef. Chop the meat into pieces the size of the tip of your thumb. Put the pieces of meat and chopped onions on a baking tray and roast in the oven at 200 °C for approximately 10 minutes. Leave the meat and onion mix to cool and then put the mix together with the garlic, the herring and the fillets of anchovy through a mincer until they resemble a coarse paté.

Blend the tomato purée, beef stock and freshly ground white pepper into the paté. Pour the mixture into a casserole dish and cook in the oven at 150 °C for at least 4 hours. Check that the paté does not dry while in the oven. Add beef stock, if necessary.

Boil the potatoes. Leave them to cool and peel them. Chop the potatoes and the pickled gherkins into dice-sized pieces. Mix them together and add the smetana. Serve the potato salad with honey.

Wash the beetroots and cut them wafer thin using a cheese slicer. Pour oil into a small saucepan and heat until very hot. Put beetroot slices into the hot oil and cook for a minute or two. Remove the slices from the oil using a perforated ladle or a sieve and leave to dry on a kitchen towel. Serve with the Vorschmack and the potato salad.

Recipe source: Simply Scandinavian*

Trumpet chanterelle and elk sauté

A plate with meat, mashed potatoes and lingonberries.

Photo: www.tiesydameen.fi

For the dough:

  • 800 g frozen elk (or other venison) meat, slightly defrosted and carved into chips
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 300 ml beer
  • 2 handfuls of dried trumpet chanterelles
  • salt
  • a few juniper berries, crushed, if available
  • crushed black pepper

Fry the elk meat and chopped onions in butter until browned. Add the beer and dried mushrooms. Season with salt, juniper berries and crushed black pepper. Cover the pan and simmer over a low heat for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Serve with mashed or duchesse potatoes.

Recipe source: HK-Ruokatalo Oy: www. tiesydameen.fi

Whipped lingonberry porridge

Whipped lingonberry porridge in elegant leaf-shaped bowls.

Photo: Simply Scandinavian/Kimmo Saira

  • 1.2 l water
  • 400 ml lingonberries
  • 100 ml sugar
  • 150 ml semolina

Cook the lingonberries for approximaterly 15 minutes in boiling water. Set aside and crush the berries with a tool such as a pestle. Strain the mixture using a fine-mesh sieve and save the juice. Put the juice back on the heat and add the sugar. When the juice starts to boil, pour in the semolina, stirring constantly. Boil for approximately 10 minutes or until the porridge is nicely thickened. Allow to cool for a while and whisk until light and fluffy using a handheld mixer. If the porridge is too sour add sugar according to taste. Serve with milk and sugar.

Recipe source: Simply Scandinavian*

Shrove bun (pulla)

A cream and jam-filled Shrove bun.

Shrove buns are a special treat around Shrove Tuesday.Photo: Simply Scandinavian/Kimmo Saira

For the dough:

  • 500 ml milk, slightly warmed
  • 50 g fresh yeast
  • 200 ml sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp ground cardamom
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1.2−1.3 l plain wheat flour
  • 150 g butter, melted and cooled

For the raspberry-blueberry jam:

  • 250 g raspberries
  • 250 g blueberries
  • 250 g preserving sugar

200 ml double cream, chilled

Dissolve the yeast in the slightly warmed milk. Add the beaten eggs, the sugar, the salt and the cardamom. Pour part of the flour into the mix and stir well until it forms a thick gloop. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two and add the rest of the flour little by little, stirring occasionally. Add the butter and stir the mixture well for a while. If it is still too thin, add some more flour. Knead the dough for approximately 5 minutes. Leave the dough to rest and allow it to rise in a large dish for approximately 30 minutes. Cover the dish with a towel.

Turn the dough onto a floured board and shape the dough into fist-sized balls, rolling them between the palm of your hand and the board. Place them on a baking tray. Brush each one with some beaten egg and sprinkle sugar nibs on top. Bake in the oven at 220 ⁰C for 10−15 minutes or until the buns are beautifully brown.

Clean the raspberries and blueberries and rinse them. Put the berries into a saucepan and add 50 ml of water. Pour the sugar into the saucepan just before the mix starts boiling, stirring well. Boil the jam for 10−15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Skim the froth off the jam and leave to cool for an hour. Pour the jam into clean jars or use it straight away for filling the halved buns.

Whip the chilled double cream until it forms firm peaks and add the sugar. Cut the buns into halves lengthwise and carve a small hole into the middle of the lower halves. Put a heaped teaspoon of rasberry-blueberry jam into the holes and pipe a ring of whipped cream around the jam.

A table set with coffee cups and bowls of cookies.

Finns are the biggest per capita consumers of coffee in the world. It is always the right time for a cup of coffee, whether morning, afternoon or after dinner. Coffee is also an essential part of festivities. During the day a cup of coffee is often enjoyed with a simple pastry, such as a pulla (bun). At parties the selection is bigger.Photo: Vastavalo/Ia Ahonen

Measures

The following conversions are approximate, but sufficiently accurate for normal cooking purposes.

DRY MEASURE

Metric: US / Imperial:
10 g 0.35 oz
100 g 3.5 oz
500 g 1.1 lb
1 kg 2.2 lb

US Dry Measure

1 l 1.8 pints

Imperial Dry Measure

1 l 1.76 pints

LIQUID MEASURES

Metric: US / Imperial:
1 cl 0.34 fl oz /0.35 fl oz
1 dl/100 ml 8.5 gills/3.5 fl oz
5 dl/500 ml 1.1 pints/0.88 pints
1 l 2.2 pints/1.76 pints

OTHER MEASURES

1 tsp 5 ml
1 tbs 2 cl

OVEN TEMPERATURES

mark °C °F Gas
Very low 120 250 1
Low 150 300 2
Moderately low 160 325 3
Moderate 180 350 4
Moderately hot 190 375 5
Hot 200 400 6
Very hot 230 450 7

* Simply Scandinavian:
Travelling in time with Finnish Cuisine and Nature by Tero Kallio and Kimmo Saira
Raikas Kustannus Ltd, 2008

Helsinki brings on the brunch

Brunch, that happy marriage of breakfast and lunch, has been receiving lots of attention in Finland lately. We set out to find the best brunch locations in Helsinki, from the traditional to the edgy.

This unhurried meal has long been a much loved part of weekend mornings around the world, and the Finns also appreciate the originally American phenomenon.


to view full map, more restaurants and links

During the 2000s, Finland really caught on to the idea of a breakfast stretching into afternoon, with an ever-increasing number cafés and restaurants adding brunch to their menus. Dozens of places attract a full house on weekend mornings.

Brunch in Helsinki represents a real fusion of foreign and local. Among the croissants, jams, cakes and omelets that form the core of a good brunch, Finnish rye bread, Karelian pies and porridge proudly represent Finnish culinary culture. Different places focus on different morning goodies; some are known for their continental-style breakfast while others boast a wide selection of cakes.

Luxury tastes and classy settings

French restaurant Sunn: one of the best views in town.

French restaurant Sunn: one of the best views in town.Photo: Amanda Soila

Helsinki offers a wealth of different brunch venues. Among the most popular are classic cafés serving luxurious breakfasts in historical settings.

Café Engel, Café Ekberg, Fazer and Primula all enjoy unquestionable status, with roots extending far back in the capital’s history. These brunches attract people from all walks of life who want to enjoy an unhurried breakfast in style, whether with friends or family or in the solitary company of a good book or newspaper.

Brunch represents something permanent and enjoyable in our ever-changing world. The license to enjoy a leisurely dining experience in an age when time is money forms at least part of the reason why everybody seems to love this hybrid meal.

Brunch with an edge

Dylan, with its retro colours, myriad salads and homemade Karelian pies, has gained a reputation as one of town’s best brunches.

Dylan, with its retro colours, myriad salads and homemade Karelian pies, has gained a reputation as one of town’s best brunches.Photo: Amanda Soila

Great brunches aren’t limited to the fancy cafés of the downtown area. If you’re looking for a bohemian atmosphere, vegan food, chill-out music and retro colours, the up-and-coming neighbourhoods are Kallio and Punavuori. They resemble the restaurant culture of eastern Berlin and are popular among students and young families.

Kallio in particular is a new mecca for alternative diners looking for breakfast with an edge. Café Villipuutarha (which means “wild garden”), only a couple years old, has gained a firm reputation as one of the best brunch locations. Its luxurious breakfasts with fresh smoothies are enjoyed in a room resembling a mixture of vintage shop and English tearoom.

At Siltanen, brunch extends into the late afternoon, with a DJ playing relaxing Sunday music. Then there is Dylan, with its retro colours, myriad salads, home-made Karelian pies and piles of fruit and cakes. Its reputation as one of town’s best brunches has travelled far and wide, and the place is invariably packed.

See our map above for links and more restaurants. Did we leave out your favourite? Post your own on our Facebook page!

By Amanda Soila, August 2011, updated June 2013

Guardians of the Finnish language

We visit the Finnish Language Office, the academic authority Finns contact for linguistic advice, to find out how words like pankki (bank) and sormitietokone (“finger-data-machine,” meaning “tablet computer”) become part of the Finnish language.

In an office overlooking Helsinki’s Kaisaniemi Park, a group of expert linguists are having a heated debate over coffee, about whether the short forms of Finnish political party names should be written with a capital letter. Another focus of the discussion is a whiteboard containing a list of phrases that have attracted their attention in the media.

This coffee room is a nerve centre of the Institute for the Languages of Finland, a national centre for linguistic studies of Finnish, Swedish, Sámi languages, as well as Finnish Romany and Finnish Sign Language. Anyone wanting professional advice on how to use Finnish correctly can call the hotline of the institute’s Language Planning Department, better known to Finns as Kielitoimisto (the Language Office).

Tai chi is a word recently imported to Finland from Asia.

Tai chi is a word recently imported to Finland from Asia.Photo: AP / Lehtikuva

Linguistic expert Riitta Eronen holds a position that does not exist in many countries, as part of a team of academics who advise people how they should use their own language. “It’s actually a myth that we decide whether a new word is correct Finnish as such, since we invariably find words through users who have already adopted them,” she says. “But we do recommend how new words can be adapted and used logically in Finnish so that everyone will understand them.”

Global influences on modern Finnish

Eronen believes that Finnish must adopt new words from other cultures to thrive in today’s globalised world: “We don’t follow any old-fashioned idea of trying to keep Finnish ‘pure’ by keeping out external influences. This would leave the language artificially isolated.”

She explains that surprisingly few words originating from the ancestral Fenno-Ugric language remain in modern Finnish. Throughout Finland’s chequered history, words have been absorbed from the languages of rulers or dominant cultures, including Nordic, Germanic, Baltic and Slavic languages, and today English – though a wave of recent Asian imports such including manga, tsunami and tai chi is also discernible. “It’s amazing how multicultural young Finnish speakers are today, especially in urban areas, speaking creatively by adopting and adapting words from different sources,” says Eronen.

Twisted loanwords

Smoothies were meant to be called pehmelö, but the word failed to catch on.

Smoothies were meant to be called pehmelö, but the word failed to catch on.Photo: Dorota i Bogdan Bialy/Stockfood/Lehtikuva

Words borrowed from other languages are often altered to make them easier for Finnish speakers to pronounce. Harmonious vowels may be added to the end of loanwords – most often “i.” Consonants are often doubled, as in hattu, meaning hat. Finnish seldom uses the letters b, c, d, f and g; many loanwords use the nearest Finnish equivalents p; k or s; t; v; and k, respectively. Such processes take Finnish speakers from “bank” to pankki, in three easy stages.

By applying such logic backwards, you may be able to work out what the following initially unfathomable loanwords mean, even if you speak no Finnish (answers at the end of the article):

1. bussi 2. kahvi 3. kulta 4. lankku 5. matto 6. tohtori 7. pihvi 8. pallo 9. kuraattori 10. hevimusiikki

Familiar words may also be given inscrutable Finnish spellings and endings, such as liisaus (leasing), brändätä (to brand a product) and downshiftata. To confuse things further, Finnish speakers faced with tongue-twisting consonant clusters like “str-” may simply leave out the first letters. Ranta, meaning “beach,” is derived from a Swedish word that also exists in English: strand.

Failed inventions and Finn-glish

Sometimes morphed words like telefooni/telehvooni and kompuutteri fail to catch on, and Finns instead come up with their own words like puhelin (speaking-device) and tietokone (knowledge-machine). The Language Office is often asked to approve words that have been devised logically or creatively, or chosen through competitions. Recent examples include kännykkä (mobile phone), pehmelö (smoothie-drink) and sormitietokone (finger-computer).

“Sauna” is, without a doubt, the most famous Finnish word, and has made its way around the world. In our humble opinion, the best saunas are still found along the seashores and lakesides of Finland.

“Sauna” is, without a doubt, the most famous Finnish word, and has made its way around the world. In our humble opinion, the best saunas are still found along the seashores and lakesides of Finland.Photo: Johanna Vuonokari/Lehtikuva

As new words and expressions become established, they are added by the Language Office to the New Dictionary of Modern Finnish. This “official” dictionary contains almost 100,000 entries and is updated regularly. “Ultimately, however, the language is not shaped by us here in the office, but by everyone out there who is creatively using it,” adds Eronen.

Linguistic integration is of course a two-way process. Several words originating in Finnish and Sámi are in use in English today, including – most famously – sauna, but also rapakivi (a granitic rock type), aapa (a kind of arctic bog), tundra and the ironic expression “Molotov cocktail” devised by Finnish soldiers for their Soviet enemies during the Winter War of 1939–40.

Answers to loanword quiz above: 1. bus 2. coffee 3. gold 4. plank 5. mat 6. doctor 7. beef (meaning “steak”) 8. ball 9. curator 10. heavy music

By Fran Weaver and Carina Chela, August 2011

Rock in a hard place at Pyhä Unplugged

In a unique outdoor festival, top Finnish rock and pop artists play acoustic music in a spectacular natural amphitheatre 100 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle.

Mato Valtonen, former lead singer of the legendary Finnish rock band Leningrad Cowboys, took a trip to Pyhä in Finnish Lapland in the 1990s. A musician friend invited him to take a walk to a local beauty spot, Aittakuru Gorge.

“My friend took his guitar down into the gorge and told me to sit up on the high slopes overlooking it and listen as he played – and the sound was absolutely amazing!” says Valtonen. “The gorge forms a perfect natural amphitheatre, and the jagged rocks on the surrounding scree slopes create acoustics that are as good as any high-tech recording studio.”

Valtonen instantly realised the gorge would be an ideal venue for an “unplugged” music festival. He spread the word among his connections in the music industry, and the Pyhä Unplugged festival has been held every summer since 1998 on a specially built stage. “When they first come here, artists are often moved to tears by the sheer beauty of the place and its acoustics,” he says. “Though this is a low-budget festival, top artists really enjoy participating – also because they get a chance to work together with other artists in an informal atmosphere.”

Reaching to the festival stage requires a small hike – no problem unless you’re a roadie carrying unwieldy musical instruments.

Reaching to the festival stage requires a small hike – no problem unless you’re a roadie carrying unwieldy musical instruments.Photo: Pera Hussi/Lapland Memories

Valtonen emphasises that everyone who has performed in Pyhä’s gorgeous arena has been keen to come back to “Finland’s nicest music festival” again – though a few roadies may be reluctant to return, since carrying cumbersome instruments along the trails to the stage can be a Herculean task.

The festival has become one of the cultural highlights of the summer in the Land of the Midnight Sun, without losing its friendly feel. The informal atmosphere enables music lovers to mix with artists, particularly during the late-night indoor sessions in Hotel Pyhätunturi.

“There’s something so special about the place that it feels almost supernatural,” says Valtonen. “One summer opera singer Maria Palo was performing ‘Singing in the Rain,’ and though the day was sunny with blue skies all around, a large cloud suddenly appeared from nowhere and dropped torrents of rain on everyone in the gorge. With all those huge rocks on the steep slopes around the gorge we’ve banned performances of anything by the Rolling Stones!” he laughs.

Artists lined up for the 2011 festival include Lenni-Kalle Taipale, Juha Tapio, Paleface, Mariska & Pahat Sudet, Johanna Rusanen, Dave Lindholm, Tuure Kilpeläinen, Edu Kettunen and many more.

By Fran Weaver, July 2011

Readers flock to New Finnish Grammar

The newly released English edition of an Italian novel set in Finland is now selling like hot cinnamon rolls.

Imagine my surprise: Top of the Guardian newspaper’s online bestseller list was a book called New Finnish Grammar. Surely some mistake? How could so many readers be queuing up to discover the perplexing intricacies of the Finnish language? Finland may be attracting plenty of delighted visitors, but how many of them take the trouble to learn more than the basics: kiitos (thank you) and olut (beer)?

Wartime view of Helsinki: New Finnish Grammar mentions the Soviet bombings of the Finnish capital, which created scenes such as this one in the neighbourhood of Hermanni.

Wartime view of Helsinki: New Finnish Grammar mentions the Soviet bombings of the Finnish capital, which created scenes such as this one in the neighbourhood of Hermanni.Photo: Osvald Hedenström/SA-Kuva/Lehtikuva

Upon closer examination, it became clear that New Finnish Grammar is in fact a novel, originally written in Italian by Diego Marani and first published in 2000. UK publisher Dedalus released an English version in 2011. Unlike most foreign literature that makes more than a passing reference to the country, the book attracted little attention when its Finnish edition appeared in 2003. The English version, on the other hand, appears to be jumping off the bookshop shelves and acquiring something of a cult status.

The novel tells of a man found on the quayside in the Italian port of Trieste in the early autumn of 1943. This unidentified character has no memory of previous life or language, but carries a single clue in the from of the nametag on his jacket – Sampo Karjalainen, the Finnish origin of which is recognised by a well-meaning ship’s doctor who has Finnish roots himself.

In the belief that the man’s best chance of rediscovering his identity lies in the north, passage is arranged to Helsinki where an army chaplain named Olof Koskela gradually fills the blank sheet of Sampo’s memory with vodka-fuelled accounts from the Finnish national epic Kalevala. Meanwhile, Sampo is distracted by the affection of a nurse, whose fraught letters from the Karelian front are increasingly resigned to his inability, emotional as much as linguistic, to reply.

Authentic setting

3443-cover_550-jpg

Cover design by Marie Lane

The three Italian literary prizes acquired by Marani for this novel are deserved if only for the authentic descriptions of a Helsinki tensed for and battered by war with Russia (the conflict in question being the so-called Continuation War of 1941–1944). From the alternating excitement and boredom of the foreign press corps in the Kämp Hotel to the bloodstained weary troops arriving by train from the front, the trauma of a city at war is convincingly portrayed.

Marani also deserves kudos for his evident understanding of the Finnish language and his knowledge of the complex Kalevala’s dramatis personae. Marani’s interest in language is not surprising in view of his roles as senior EU linguist and inventor of Europanto, a kind of Europe-only Esperanto, but his empathy with Finnish culture is more than academic.

New Finnish Grammar offers much more than a thoroughly researched wartime mystery. In a compact narrative that stops just short of 190 pages, it manages to examine the nature of memory, the connection between language and identity, and the relationship between identity, commitment and love, while interpreting Finland’s ancient myths, through Olof Koskela’s descriptions, as deeply philosophical and contemporary.

Sampo’s name itself is no coincidence: Sampo is the mystical artefact at the heart of the Kalevala, an elusive magic grail, while Karjalainen is the adjective meaning “of Karelia,” referring to the eastern region of Finland, much of which was lost to the Soviet Union at the end of the Continuation War.

“Bright and elusive”

At the same time, rarely can the Finnish language itself have been described so appreciatively by a non-Finn. “Finnish syntax is thorny but delicate: Instead of starting from the centre of things, it surrounds and envelops them from without,” expounds Olof Koskela in one of his tutorials. “As a result, the Finnish sentence is like a cocoon, impenetrable, closed in upon itself; here meaning ripens slowly and then, when ripe, flies off, bright and elusive.”

The last word should go to the fine translation by Judith Landry. It’s a pity that the publisher made the decision, in a book focusing on language, to do away with the Finnish letters “ä” and “ö” in the English version. [Editor’s note: After reading this article, Dedalus Books contacted us to explain that the English text they originally received did not include the Finnish letters for some reason. This oversight may be corrected in the next edition.] But this is a book worth reading for anyone familiar with Finland – and anyone who’s not.

By Tim Bird, August 2011

Setting the world aright at the “ladies’ sauna”

For some prominent Finnish women, regular meetings of a sauna club are a source of strength.

On a beautiful but cool spring evening, three women sit together, sharing experiences and discussing current affairs. They are all movers and shakers of Finnish society: Sirkka Hämäläinen, former Governor of the Bank of Finland and member of the European Central Bank’s Executive Board, now a member of the boards of many corporations and organisations; Raija-Sinikka Rantala, with an impressive career as a theatre director, administrator and teacher as well as Helena Hiilivirta, director of the soon-to-be-completed Helsinki Music Centre. They are doing what they and their network, known as the “ladies’ sauna”, have done for more than 20 years.

Peer support and relaxation

The story began in 1987, when Sirkka Hämäläinen held various top-level posts at Finland’s central bank.

“I needed support and people I could talk to,” she recalls. “It seemed as if my whole life revolved around the economy and my own work; and I longed for perspectives from other areas of society.”

So she and a few friends set up a network which began to spend several evenings together each spring and autumn. The programme usually consisted of a presentation on a current event, socialising and sauna bathing together – as groups of Finnish male colleagues have always done.

“When we started these get-togethers, the Bank of Finland building’s sauna did not have any women’s bathing gear. Sirkka started to equip it properly,” recalls Raija-Sinikka Rantala.

The circle of women began to expand as others who had been invited to make presentations were invited to join the group.

“I joined in 1994. It was lovely to be able to relax in good company after a working day,” says Helena Hiilivirta.

In recent years, the “ladies’ sauna” has gathered about 20 women from the top echelons of finance, art, science, the church and other sectors of society. Only one man has ever served as a presenter. Another time, when the evening’s programme included practicing firing a handgun, a man was along to provide guidance, along with a woman director.

Women taking over Europe

In the sauna.

In the sauna.Photo: Sanna Liimatainen

The “ladies’ sauna” has also directed its resources into international arenas. In the 1990s, the group arranged public events abroad, first at Villa Lante, the Finnish cultural centre in Rome, then at the Finnish Institute in Athens and finally in Frankfurt during the first Finnish EU presidency term. These forums focused on Finland’s society, culture, art, security policy and economy.

“The audience didn’t find out that all the speakers were women until they arrived at the venue. You should have seen their faces!” Hämäläinen recalls with a smile.

Over the years, there have gradually been fewer sauna evenings, but the members keep in touch.

“There have been suspicions that we are some kind of secret society, as one after another member of our circle have risen to various administrative positions,” she says. “But in fact this has been a result of each one’s personal characteristics.”

Women must be encouraged into leadership

By international standards, Finland boasts many women in leading positions in society. What factors lie behind women’s leadership and how have these women themselves risen to the top of their fields?

“I’d stress the significance of my own superiors,” says Hämäläinen. “Their support was a crucial factor in my rise to directorial positions.”

When she applied to become head of the Finance Ministry’s Economics Department and realised that the government would not back her unanimously for the post, she withdrew her application.

“My boss at the Bank of Finland at the time, Seppo Lindblom, said that if I didn’t have the nerve to compete for that job, then I should never complain that women in Finland don’t make it into leadership positions,” Hämäläinen recalls. She reapplied and was chosen for the job.

Carrying responsibility – and power

These women agree that those who take on more responsibility naturally gain more responsible jobs. As they see it, women have a tendency to take care of their responsibilities more precisely and punctually than men. Yet they are also more afraid than men to take risks and to fail.

“Nowadays women lead many theatres in Finland, because as organisations they are so much work to run. Men prefer to do more pleasant work,” claims Raija-Sinikka Rantala.

Of course these women, too, have encountered prejudice.

“I remember when I was applying for the job of intendent of the Lahti Symphony Orchestra. I was under 30, I had red hair and I was wearing some kind of colourful jumper,” says Hiilivirta with a laugh. “The interviewer asked me how I imagined I could make it in a managerial position when I hadn’t served in the army” – as most Finnish men have, due to mandatory conscription.

“Many men seem to think that women should always be sunny and pleasant. When I took over as Governor of the Bank of Finland during a crisis, a high-ranking officer asked me why I was always so serious on television and never smiled – I’d just been interviewed in a situation when I had to predict a sharp increase in unemployment,” says Hämäläinen. “I asked him if he would smile if he had to announce on television that Finland had been attacked!”

Combining family and demanding work

Unlike men, women leaders are always asked how they manage to balance a challenging job with family life. Each of these women has a family.

“It wasn’t easy when I had a small child at home,” says Rantala. “I remember how tight my time was when I used to rush home to fix dinner and then off to the theatre for evening rehearsals.”

“Support from one’s family is terribly important,” adds Hiilivirta. “My husband grew up with the idea of a mother having a strong role outside of the home. So my rise to leadership positions was not hard for him.”

In their own upbringing, each of these women received a strong message that a woman should have a career of her own and never be financially dependent on a man.

Motherhood is the best leadership training

“Practical matters can always be arranged, but it’s more important to influence women’s own attitudes,” says Hämäläinen. “Women should be encouraged to take risks and responsibility. And when you’re in a leadership position, you have to accept the fact that you will make mistakes and that you will face criticism. And you need healthy self-confidence to withstand that.”

As she sees it, the best leadership training is not found in the military, but rather in a mother’s role.

“It’s much more difficult to manage your own child who is going through the ‘terrible twos’ than subordinates in the army, who are required to obey. A parent is always trying to help their children to blossom, to bring out the best in them – just as a good manager does,” she observes.

These women have watched with satisfaction as more and more women gain a chance to fulfil their potential in society’s leading positions. On the other hand, they are concerned about short-sighted operations driven by the latest quarterly reports, and the attendant rise of short-term contracts.

“After all, the individual and his or her welfare is the point of all economic activity,” notes Hämäläinen. “Over the long run, taking care of people is the best way to support economic health and competitiveness.”

By Salla Korpela, July 2009