Designing happiness: Finnish products that help people thrive

Rain, check!

What? Kidswear by Reima

How? Founded in 1944, Reima has built their reputation on clothing that supports children’s mobility and outdoor play. The focus on functionality means waterproof fabrics, breathable materials and durable construction. This reflects a broader Nordic ethos: children should be free to explore, whatever the weather. In Finland, everyday wellbeing is often traced back to time spent outdoors, starting from early childhood.

Walk past any kindergarten in Finland on a rainy day, and you’ll see small figures in waterproof clothing or splash gear jumping in puddles and playing in the mud.

Someone ordered a smile?

Several small delivery robots move down a curved sidewalk.

Photo: Aivan

What? Delivery Robots designed by Aivan

How? Starship’s grocery delivery robots are a prime example of design that spreads joy. Rolling along Finnish sidewalks, they bring groceries straight to people’s doorsteps. Unlike some robots that can feel cold or intimidating, these ones spark delight: when they were first introduced, people snapped photos of the friendly-looking machines. To this day, pedestrians still stop to help if one gets stuck or hesitates at a busy crossing.

According to the Finnish design agency Aivan, social acceptance was a key driver in the design of the robots. They are intentionally made to look non-threatening. Their compact, rounded form and subtle expressions make them feel more like helpful companions than machines.

Child’s play

Photo: Wiitta

What? Sled and slider

How? A sled (pulkka in Finnish) or snow slider (liukuri) is more than just a plastic toy – it’s a ticket to winter fun. Found in nearly every Finnish home, these simple items turn snowy days into opportunities for movement, play and shared happiness, transforming even the smallest hill into an amusement park. And not just that: On snowy winter days, a sled pulled by a guardian is the go-to mode of transport to kindergarten for anyone under six in Finland.

For generations Finnish winter play has been shaped by classic pulkka, a simple plastic sled. Its design is straightforward, durable and affordable – qualities that reflect the Finnish belief that good design should be accessible and enhance everyday life.

Showing true colours

A woman in a Marimekko print dress lies on her side on the floor, lifting one leg.

Photo: Marimekko

What? Lifestyle Brand Marimekko

How? Since 1951, Finnish design powerhouse Marimekko has been on a mission to bring colour and cheer to everyday life with bold prints and vibrant palettes, in both clothing and homeware. Founder Armi Ratia envisioned a brand that would celebrate individuality, optimism and freedom.

In a time when the norm was tight, form-fitting clothing for women, Marimekko introduced loose-fitting, eye-catching dresses that offered freedom of movement and expression. This wasn’t just fashion. It was a statement of liberation, especially for women stepping into new roles in society. Today, Marimekko’s bold patterns and colours are combined with Nordic minimalism in everything from tableware to textiles.

Joy on wheels

A high-tech bicycle is on an urban street. A person rests her foot on the bike.

Photo: Helkama

What? Jopo bicycle

How? Jopo, short for jokaisen polkupyörä (everyone’s bicycle) was introduced in 1965 by Finnish company Helkama as a response to the growing need for a practical, everyday bicycle. It marked a radical departure from traditional bike design. With its adjustable frame, single-speed simplicity and cheerful colours, it was built to be shared, enjoyed and embraced by all ages.

Jopo bikes are manufactured in Hanko, Finland’s southernmost city, known for its sunshine. Over the decades, Jopo has become a symbol of Finnish egalitarianism and urban cheerfulness – a true everyday design icon. It remains an all-time favourite among tweens and teens, with colorful bikes lining schoolyards across the country.

Can happiness be designed?

A woman, Anniina Koivu, poses in the sunshine.

Photo: Piercarlo Quecchia

This is the question curator Anniina Koivu set out to explore in Designing Happiness, an exhibition that premiered at Helsinki Design Week, the largest design and architecture festival in the Nordic countries.

“Happiness is difficult to define. It’s something between the deeply personal and the collective,” says Koivu.

The exhibition examines how design can trigger key hormones behind the feeling of happiness: the so-called “happiness cocktail” of dopamine, serotonin, oxytocin and endorphins.

So, what makes Finns top the World Happiness Report year after year? Koivu, who was born in Finland, raised in Germany, and now lives in Switzerland and Italy, has some ideas:

“In Finland, there’s a certain calmness, appreciation and acceptance of things as they are, rather than a constant drive to change them.

“I like to think it’s connected to our relationship with nature – accepting that we don’t need to dominate or master it. It’s about understanding your place as part of something bigger, whether that’s society, nature or the universe.”

By Taina Ahtela, ThisisFINLAND Magazine

Turku Castle has stood through 700 years of Finnish history

Life & society History

In southwestern Finland, the city of Turku holds some grand historic structures, including a castle that counts itself among the nation’s oldest buildings. An episode of Monocle Radio’s The Urbanist explores the history of Turku Castle, from its beginnings in the 1280s to its later life as a museum.

Construction began when Finland was part of the Kingdom of Sweden, and the castle grew from a small, partly wooden fortress into a formidable stone castle and, in the 16th century, a grand Renaissance residence.

The castle later found itself at the centre of European power struggles when Duke John, later King John III of Sweden, brought his new wife, Catherine Jagiellon of Poland, to Turku. John’s older brother, King Eric XIV of Sweden, grew suspicious of his alliance with Poland and, in 1563, sent troops to besiege Turku Castle. After heavy bombardment, John and Catherine surrendered and were imprisoned. Five years later, the tables turned: John led a successful rebellion against Eric, deposed him and brought him to Turku Castle as a prisoner in 1570.

In 1614, a fire broke out in the kitchen while King Gustav II Adolf was visiting the castle, destroying much of the interiors. The castle subsequently served as a storehouse and barracks, while its outer bailey was converted into a prison in the 19th century. The main castle was severely damaged during bombings in 1941, and restoration work was completed in 1961. Today, Turku Castle operates as a museum and remains one of the city’s major historical landmarks.

Beats beneath the surface: Inside Helsinki’s underground rave scene

Arts & culture Music

Ask five people what a rave is, and you’ll likely get five different answers. But at its core, rave culture centres on music, dancing and a shared love for this counterculture with an ethos of peace, love, unity and respect (PLUR).

DJ Pixi, a longtime rave organiser and performer, says the vibe changes depending on the setting. Indoors, you are edging closer to club territory. Outdoors, it’s all about culture and community.

Step inside Helsinki’s underground rave scene.

If you’re new, you’ll need a tip from a friend or a lucky scroll on social media. Locations are whispered, not posted, though the occasional flyer may appear if you know where to look.

For those interested in exploring the scene, start by joining local music groups or Helsinki-based events pages on social media. Sometimes, chatting with strangers or DJs after club nights can open doors, too.

Trees and techno

A woman performs with glowing LED props that form bright blue and white patterns swirling through the darkness at an outdoor rave in Helsinki.

The bass shakes the trees as Ada Kontio works the beat like magic, spinning lights and pulling everyone into the heart of the party.

Summer in Helsinki means daylight that stretches almost all through the night. Midnight means nothing as people peel off the main road – and they’re not just out for a stroll. On the eastern edge of the city, at Vuosaari Limestone Quarry, people of every stripe gather with one goal: to dance summer into existence.

The city’s forests transform into a fairy tale, but with a soundtrack that actually slaps. Ada Kontio, a seasoned raver, compares outdoor raves to tumbling down Alice’s rabbit hole: “Here, you can truly be yourself and dance however you want, without judgment. You can make a new friend just by smiling and dancing together.” Weirdness is celebrated here, just as it is in Wonderland.

Coloured lights shine through dense forest beside a small body of water, where people gather at an outdoor rave in Helsinki at night.

Every rave is made by the people who show up, by their shared respect for the space and their mission to make everyone feel at home.

The decks are open, meaning anyone brave enough can step up and play. There’s no hierarchy here. DJ Pixi is inspired by that unity: “What I see in my sets is that everyone is in it together – it’s not just me as the DJ and them as the audience; we’re all together, and that’s the feeling that makes me continue doing what I do.”

A DJ wearing white sunglasses mixes music on a controller as colourful streaks of light blur across the crowded dance floor at an underground rave.

DJ Pixi’s mission? To spark endless adrenaline and excitement, bouncing her own passion straight back into the crowd.

The night refuses to end as hundreds gather at the quarry. Electronic beats clash and mingle with the hush of Finnish nature, creating a surreal world ravers want to respect.

Morning comes, but the beat goes on as friends and strangers tidy up together.

Rules for raving right?

Revellers sit and stand around a fire in a wooded clearing at night, illuminated by orange flames and blue and green lighting from a nearby outdoor music setup.

Campfires, lights and natural surroundings are common features of outdoor rave gatherings in Finland during the summer months.

Angel Girls, a DJ duo who wish to be quoted together, say the setting plays a major role when it comes to raves. “In the middle of the forest, people don’t see what’s going on, so you can just go there and be at peace in the woods.”

But that freedom and peace? It doesn’t just happen. Ravers build their own safe haven, one good deed at a time. Angel Girls were named after their actions: “Our friends gave us the name. At some point, they started calling us ‘The Angel Girls’ – I guess because we always had all the essentials with us. We’d hand out water, gum and snacks to people.”

Even though the scene is welcoming, there are some things to keep in mind. Angel Girls say that as long as you follow the etiquette and are kind, it’s easy to get involved. Whether you have never raved before or are a regular, everyone is invited onto the dancefloor. But what etiquette, exactly?

It’s simple, really. As DJ Pixi puts it: “There’s an unspoken rule that you don’t make anyone uncomfortable – people just get it without needing to talk about it. Everyone can be themselves and come as they are, and no one is judged for what they’re like, because raves are a place where a judgmental atmosphere isn’t welcome.”

So, with etiquette in mind, step into the woods or a city park after dark. Follow the bass and you might just stumble into a whole new world, where the dance floor greets you with open arms and aux cords.

By Céilidhe Becker, September 2026
Photos and video by Sami Heiskanen

How Finland’s free school lunches became part of the national identity

Life & society Education

When school meals are discussed in Finland, the conversation often carries a whiff of enlightened civic virtue and moral certainty. Any sensible adult is expected to have just one view: school meals are worth supporting. Full stop.

Free school meals became available to all elementary school students in Finland in 1948. In the early years, kids’ favorite school lunches in Helsinki included meat soup and semolina porridge, according to Ritva Kylli’s book on Finnish food history.

The most hated dish was thin, milk-based macaroni porridge. At the time, macaroni was too exotic an ingredient for Finns, and it was favored in institutional cafeterias because preparing it was much easier than peeling potatoes.

Macaroni’s exotic aura, meanwhile, is long gone. On offer now are spaghetti, lasagna, penne casserole, marry me pasta and Palermo pasta, now something of a Finnish school-cafeteria classic. The recipe was created for a 1998 school food competition by Sirkka Anttonen, the kitchen manager at Kärpänen School in Lahti. In a 2023 Helsingin Sanomat article, Anttonen said she was looking for a name for the dish, turned to a map of Italy, and happened upon Palermo.

School meals were once an effective weapon against poverty and malnutrition in Finland, too. When children’s stomachs aren’t growling, learning outcomes improve, as well.

The full story by Virpi Salmi is featured on Kotona.com, a Finnish lifestyle site covering homes, design, crafts and everyday living in Finland. (Kotona means “at home” in Finnish.)

How a Finnish music fest creates a singular sense of community

Arts & culture Classical music

After driving for several hours along a road lined with forests and lakes, you wouldn’t expect to wind up at one of the world’s leading classical music festivals. Yet every July, Kuhmo becomes the international capital of chamber music for two weeks.

“The contrast is huge,” says festival volunteer Matti-Jussi Pollari, a former director of the Kuhmo Arts Centre. “We are by the lake, surrounded by forest. And then we have this amazing concert hall.”

Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival typically hosts about 60 ticketed concerts, as well as a couple dozen free events. The concerts attract a total of more than 7,000 unique attendees and sell a total of about 20,000 tickets. Venues include the Kuhmo Arts Centre, the local church and the village school.

Visit the friendly atmosphere of Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival with our video.
Video: Erika Benke/ThisisFINLAND

The Kuhmo Arts Centre, a striking building with a 668-seat performance hall built from local pine and stone, is the heart of the festival. “It’s one of the best halls I’ve ever played in,” says violinist Sergey Malov, widely known for his versatility, who keeps returning to Kuhmo year after year. “It may be my very favourite hall in the world. It has a wonderful look and perfect acoustics.”

Kuhmo may be famous for world-class chamber music, but the magic also extends off-stage. Musicians and audiences become neighbours. “We haven’t got much hotel capacity in Kuhmo,” says Pollari. “Most artists and visitors rent cottages or spaces in people’s homes.”

Two seated people shake hands with a standing visitor at an outdoor café table shaded by an awning.

Violist Mira Maranta (left) and cellist Nigel Thean of the Modulor Quartet chat with a festival visitor at a café in Kuhmo.

This arrangement is crucial to understanding how the festival has become part of everyday life in Kuhmo. Locals meet musicians everywhere they go, and musicians report running into members of the audience at the supermarket, mingling with them at cafés and sitting next to each other in restaurants.

“Everybody seems to be in it together,” says Beatrice Harmon, a violinist in the Modulor Quartet, which came to Kuhmo from Switzerland to play at several concerts. “When we see each other in the street, we greet each other. We go to the same shops as the audience members, and we go to the sauna with all the musicians – a Finnish experience that we haven’t got in Switzerland.”

Modular’s cellist, Nigel Thean, agrees. “We arrived two days ago, but I already feel like part of the community.”

Two people swim in a calm lake bordered by a forest under a clear sky.

Visiting musicians appreciate the possibility of going for a swim in the lake – and there is a dock conveniently located behind the concert hall.

Malov has fully immersed himself in the Finnish experience. “Fifteen minutes before the opening concert of the festival, I had a dip in the lake,” he says with a mischievous smile. “That could not happen in New York or London.”

Visitors feel it, too. Eberhard from Germany has attended the Kuhmo Festival 12 times since 1999. “I’ve just been to the supermarket and bumped into a man who checks the tickets at the concert hall,” he says. “He said, ‘Welcome to Kuhmo, I remember you!’”

That sense of familiarity is central to Kuhmo’s identity. For Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival artistic director Minna Pensola, those everyday encounters break down barriers between performers and audiences. “The threshold to comment on what happens on the stage is really low,” she says. “It has to do with the fact that we go around and mingle, and have equal access to concert halls, cafés, restaurants and lakes.”

A still lake glows orange, reflecting the sunset while the trees on the shore appear as silhouettes.

During the long days of summer, Kuhmo experiences magical “white nights,” with twilight for a few hours, but not complete darkness.

I experienced that sense of belonging for myself. The first question I was asked after entering a sauna in Kuhmo wasn’t about where I came from. It was, “What instrument do you play?” I had to admit that I didn’t play anything. Nobody seemed to mind, and I still felt like a welcome part of the group.

I left Kuhmo thinking that its greatest feat, and part of what makes it so unique, is what happens in between the concerts. World-famous musicians, festival staff and concertgoers aren’t separate groups – they all belong to the same community.

Text, photos and video by Erika Benke, September 2026

Finnish fashion brings bold prints and practical layers for autumn

Business & innovation Fashion

Autumn means back to school, work and busy schedules of hobbies and social events. As the days grow shorter and more blustery, leaves turn yellow and orange and fall from the trees, and fashion reflects the changing seasons

Autumn prints

A collage displays a brown jumper, leopard-print coat and skirt, a long patterned skirt, black heeled ankle boots, a muted checked scarf and a small necklace, next to a model in a matching dark blue and olive green checked outfit.

1. Brushed cashmere knit, Original Story; 2. Chrysoprase necklace, Keski-Pomppu; 3. Franny Pony Coat in Leo, Almada Label; 4. Look, Almada Label; 5. Kity wool skirt, Andiata; 6. Joya ankle boots, Terhi Pölkki; 7. Virva scarf, Nanso.Lookbook image: Marimekko

Autumn brings two familiar patterns back into focus: checks and leopard print.

Finnish brand Almada Label made its runway debut during Copenhagen Fashion Week in August. Known for its minimalist approach and everyday wardrobe staples, the brand introduced bold leopard print into the collection. What we learned from the show is that the key to wearing leopard in a pared-back way is to keep the rest of the look simple. Think clean lines, muted colours and understated accessories. Almada Label was also named the winner of the Internationalisation category at the 2026 Finnish Fashion Awards.

Marimekko takes a sharp approach to checks with a matching top and trousers in the same bold pattern. Made from organic cotton poplin, the set feels almost like an office-appropriate alternative to pyjamas.

Starting a new school year

A collage shows a striped button-up shirt, a cream sweatshirt with an owl graphic, green trousers, green outerwear, a blue backpack, a striped pencil case and a pink elephant-shaped reflector, next to two children modelling autumn outfits.

1. Vinkke piccolo shirt, Marimekko; 2. Paradise Long Purse, Johanna Gullichsen; 3. Signature sweatshirt, Gugguu; 4. Elefantti reflector, Finlayson; 5. Children’s anorak trousers, R-Collection; 6. Sumu backpack, Globe Hope; 7. Zipper anorak, R-Collection.Lookbook image: Gugguu

A new school year calls for clothes that can keep up with busy days. For Finnish kids, that often means practical layers and durable materials.

R-Collection’s anorak is a classic starting point. It was first created in 1982 and quickly became one of the brand’s most popular pieces. The tightly woven fabric protects well against the wind, while a water- and dirt-repellent finish makes it a practical choice for unpredictable autumn weather.

For children, clothes are also a way to show personality. Colours, prints and details that reflect their interests make getting dressed more fun. The accessories matter too. A practical backpack and pencil case are school essentials. Most importantly, a reflector helps children stay visible as the days get shorter.

The ease of a matching knit

A collage shows a dark brown coat, bronze earrings, cream ribbed knitwear, a burgundy pointed-toe boot and a black slouchy handbag arranged around a woman modelling a pale knit outfit, next a woman wearing a brown top with flowing sleeves and a matching fitted skirt.

1. Lumilla coat, Andiata; 2. Kosmos bronze earrings, Kalevala; 3. Lille ribbed sweater, Balmuir; 4. Jasper boots, Hagelstam; 5. Lily ribbed skirt, Balmuir; 6. Look, Original Story; 7. Origami slouchy bag, Pihka.Lookbook image: Balmuir

As autumn arrives, calendars often fill with social plans after work. A matching knit set is one of the easiest ways to look put-together from desk to dinner. Soft, warm and easy to style, it offers the comfort of loungewear with a more polished finish.

Finnish brands are particularly strong when it comes to knitwear. Take a look at Original Story, Almada Label, Ruskovilla, Alpa and Balmuir, all known for their high-quality knitwear.

Dressed for work and the journey

A collage shows a striped shirt, beige trousers, blue rain mac, black leather tote, brown derby shoes, watch and perfume bottle around a male model, next to a model wearing a green and blue checked jacket over a grey crew-neck jumper.

1. Classic stripe shirt, Turo; 2. Montalcino rain mac, Schoffa; 3. Look, Turo; 4. Fabrik pants, Makia; 5. January 5 Eau de Parfum, Aplomb; 6. Loihi watch, Aarni; 7. Tote bag, Turo; 8. Brown derby shoes, Schoffa.Lookbook image: Johanna Gullichsen

Polished enough for the office, practical enough for the commute and easy to wear beyond working hours, Finnish workwear pieces can handle autumn conditions well.

Schoffa’s lightweight Rain Mac is made for the journey to work, with a water-repellent and breathable fabric that provides protection when the autumn weather shifts.

If your wardrobe basics are covered but you are looking for something more distinctive for presentations or work events, Johanna Gullichsen’s workwear-inspired jacket offers another take on office dressing. Made from sturdy cotton, it features the brand’s iconic Doris pattern.

A new fragrance can be the finishing touch, an invisible accessory that stays with you throughout the day. Aplomb is a new luxury perfume brand from Helsinki that launched earlier this year. Its unisex fragrances are inspired by real-life muses, with each scent created as a letter to the person who inspired it. “January 5” captures the spirit of Finnish sisu (meaning a combination of courage and perseverance) with notes of bergamot, lily-of-the-valley, patchouli and cedarwood.

By Johanna Piispa, September 2026
(Images courtesy of the brands)

In Finnish Lapland, Northern Lights cast lifelong spell on visitors

Life & society Travel

Finnish credentials for aurora-watching potential include access right across the country to places with relatively low or zero light pollution; the northerly location; a viewing season that starts as early as late August and extends to late April; and expert local guidance.

The Northern Lights are visible in southern Finland more often than people think, but aurora hunters know that the chances improve as they head further north. People head to Finnish Lapland (roughly the northernmost third of Finland) from across the globe in the hope of ticking off this item from their bucket lists. They don’t always understand that the phenomenon does not appear on demand and can be obscured by cloudy weather. But if they strike it lucky, they might be so enchanted by their aurora initiation that they decide to stay for good.

Paul Swallow from the UK and Aggie Olek from Poland, who run the Levi Foxfires luxury lodge near the Levi resort in northern Finland, are examples of how the aurora can have a life-changing influence. “Foxfires” is a translation of the Finnish name for the aurora, revontulet, referring to one of many colourful folklore legends about the phenomenon, namely that it is caused by sparks from a giant fox’s tail as it runs across the northern fells.

Olek recalls the couple’s 2014 aurora initiation: “It is difficult to describe it in words. The feeling is something we wish everyone can one day experience. This holiday left us with the strong desire in our hearts that we would love to see the Northern Lights again and again. But little did we know that in a few years’ time our dream of seeing them regularly would come true. We came to [the northern Finnish resort town of] Levi, and after a one-day holiday here, we were sure that Levi was where we wanted to live. And the Northern Lights were the cherry on the cake.”

For aurora addicts, the initial fix is unforgettable, but the awe of future viewings is undiminished. Olek and Swallow may be seasoned aurora watchers, but they also share the excitement of novices.

Emotional reactions

Bands of purple, pink and green light stretch across the dark sky in northern Finland.

The shape and configuration of the Northern Lights fluctuate before your eyes.

When German photographer and aurora tour guide Thomas Kast arrived in Finnish Lapland as a student in 1998, everything was new and overwhelming. “When I first saw the Northern Lights, I was in disbelief,” he says. “I had not seen anything like it in the night sky. Neither had I heard much about this phenomenon or had any goal to see it.

“There were no digital cameras back then, no social media, no big news reports of sightings. I didn’t know what those ‘lights’ would mean to me in the future. But I’ve seen many emotional first reactions to the aurora from my guests over the years, and I’m so happy they appreciate what they are witnessing. For myself, I cannot imagine staying in a place where the aurora is extremely rare or never even visible. It would leave a big hole in my heart.”

French photographer Rayann Elzein is an Arctic tour operator who has made his home in the town of Utsjoki, on Finland’s northern border. He vividly recalls the thrill of his own first sighting and how it awoke an aurora appetite.

“It was in 2011 towards the end of the season, in late March,” he says. “I ended up in [the far-northern village of] Inari after a lot of research to find the best spot. Within a couple of hours of arriving at my accommodation, the sky lit up in all hues of greens and pinks and purples, and to date this was still one of the most beautiful shows that I have ever seen. Since then, I have been hooked!”

Impressive and unpredictable

Bands of purple, pink and green light stretch across the dark sky above snowy, silhouetted trees in Finland.

While it is possible to spot the Northern Lights in southern Finland, your chances improve if you head further north.

Elzein warns of a trend whereby companies claim to guarantee aurora sightings: “On our Instagram, we are educating our followers on many aspects about Lapland, and this is one of the things we mention again and again – the aurora cannot be guaranteed.”

The Northern Lights follow 11-year solar activity cycles, and 2026 is an especially active peak year. But like most natural phenomena, activity isn’t always easy to predict, and any year can deliver impressive displays.

“I remember one night during the so-called solar minimum,” says Kast. “On a cold February night, I photographed a wonderful, majestic aurora – a beautiful night. It was late, and I packed up my gear and started walking back to the car. Then someone seemingly switched on a light in the sky and one of the craziest corona displays I’ve ever experienced started. I fell on my knees and a huge wave of emotions swept over me. The aurora was so strong, I could see tree shadows on the snow. A minute or so later, it was over. Thinking back, I still get goosebumps.”

Tips for Northern Lights photography

Get as far away as you can from urban light pollution, which can dilute or obscure your view of the Northern Lights.
Use a “proper” camera fixed to a tripod, rather than a phone or other device, to be able to focus and make other settings manually and get better quality photos.
Use the flashlight on your phone or a headlight to be able to check your settings in the dark. Make sure your battery is fully charged before you set out and take a spare fully charged battery.
Check out potential locations in daylight, and think about a foreground to make your photos more interesting. You might be able to find a lakeside location, for example, to get aurora reflections in your shot.
Especially if this is your first experience of the aurora, don’t get too obsessed with your photo shots: remember to enjoy and submit to the experience!

What causes the Northern Lights?

The aurora borealis (and its southern equivalent the aurora australis), occurs when electrically charged particles are carried from the sun in a solar wind. The magnetic fields at the earth’s poles draw the solar winds towards them. The collision of those particles with atmospheric gases such as oxygen and nitrogen is what sparks the aurora.

Text and photos by Tim Bird, September 2026

Immigrant entrepreneurs turn Finnish flavours into award-winning drinks

Business & innovation Entrepreneurs

Moving to Finland is one thing. Preparedness, you’ll be told, is everything. You’ll be told to brace yourself for the serenity of silence, the deep freeze of winter, the sheer-nakedness of sauna. Nobody warns you that snowball fighting is nowhere near as easy as it looks, though.

Cleber Gonçalves found this out the hard way on his first day here from Brazil more than 20 years ago.

“I went out and played in the snow and tried to make snowballs. But it was a bit too cold, so they didn’t work so well,” he says. “I realised this is something I should have done probably 30 years earlier, when I was a kid.”

A glass-fronted greenhouse building in Viikki houses CoolHead Brew’s brewery and taproom, with outdoor seating arranged around the entrance.

During the pandemic, CoolHead moved to a former Helsinki University greenhouse in the Viikki neighbourhood.Photo: Emilia Kangasluoma

Like many, after an initial visit, Gonçalves was eventually lured back here for the long haul by love. His imaginings of polar bears and penguins on the streets (neither animal is found in Finland) quickly gave way to something more grounded: a career in IT, and a new hobby.

“I learned to make beer in Finland,” he recalls. “Back in Brazil, I knew nothing about beer, basically. I was just another bulk lager drinker. My first experiences with craft beer were here.”

In 2013 Gonçalves was at a career crossroads. Now or never. Fight. Flight. Time to upgrade his hobby. CoolHead Brew emerged the following year.

Sour power

CoolHead’s Cleber Gonçalves smiles towards the camera, his long dreadlocks framing his face against a softly lit background.

On his first team lunch in Finland, Gonçalves took so long choosing his food that his colleagues had finished eating by the time he sat down. “After a week of eating alone, I learned to eat faster,” he says.Photo: Emilia Kangasluoma

CoolHead’s big break came early, surfing the craft beer boom as the first brewery in Finland to consistently produce sour beers. A restless wave of creativity has since fuelled more than 380 different beers.

“Even nowadays, we release maybe three or four new beers per month,” Gonçalves says. “We explored every single fruit you can imagine, and pretty much all the spices and combinations of hops.”

CoolHead founder Cleber Gonçalves displays bright yellow cans of the brewery’s beer during the packaging process.

CoolHead’s identity as a sour brewery came when a part-time student employee spotted the style at a craft beer bar. CoolHead Brew has released more than 380 different beers since it was established in 2014.Photo: Emilia Kangasluoma

They were determined to master one elusive flavour: salmiakki, that distinctly Finnish salty liquorice that cleaves opinion like nothing else in the Nordic pantry.

And tickles judges’ taste buds, evidently.

The brewery’s Salmiac Licorice Blackcurrant Sour was named the best beer in Finland at the 2025 Best Beer in Finland competition. It was the first time a sour beer had ever taken the top prize.

CoolHead founder Cleber Gonçalves stands on a raised metal platform between large stainless-steel brewing tanks inside a bright industrial brewery.

Not content with winning Finland’s best beer, CoolHead followed up with Super Salmiac Double Licorice Triple Blackcurrant. You’ll need extra sisu (the Finnish word that means a mix of courage and perseverance).Photo: Emilia Kangasluoma

“That flavour is really dear to Finnish hearts. It’s a love that has been going on for ages, since childhood,” Gonçalves says. “That was really the reason we wanted so badly to make that beer in the beginning.”

A Brazilian brewer nailing the ultimate Finnish flavour makes for a certain kind of story. “The very fact that we are a sour brewery is due to one of our early employees,” he says. “I couldn’t have done any of this by myself. The people that work here at CoolHead are the ones who make it great.”

CoolHead’s love of salmiakki runs strong – they also serve salmiakki ice cream at their taproom in the Viikki neighbourhood, northeast of the city.

Finnish berries in a bottle

Winemakers Paola Guerrero de Cohen and David Cohen stand outdoors holding bottles of Ainoa wine, with sunlit foliage in the background.

“We’re not copying the flavours of traditional wine countries, but we are following the philosophy,” says David.Photo: Akindof/Ainoa Winery

Ninety kilometres (55 miles) up the road in Hollola, Ainoa Winery takes a different approach to new flavours. Whereas CoolHead restlessly tweaks the formula with a constant stream of new beers, Ecuadorian Paola Guerrero de Cohen and her American husband David Cohen take years to develop each wine. Studiously and patiently – the Finnish way, you might say. Or just another Finnish way of doing things.

David was a hobbyist winemaker when he moved here for work in 2008. Paola followed. The challenge? Grapes don’t grow naturally in Finland. But something else does – in abundance.

Five bottles from Ainoa Winery’s range of berry wines and dessert wines stand on a counter, with shelves of illuminated bottles blurred in the background.

Cloudberry dessert wine, dry blueberry wine, a merlot and raspberry blend – the Ainoa range is not your typical wine list.Photo: Visit Lahti

Ainoa Winery specialises in berry wines. Think: internationally awarded berry wines. Like, so-good-they-are-awarded-in-France berry wines. Multiple times.

“Finland has a natural resource that the rest of the world simply can’t match,” says David. “People ask, what makes the berries good? Is it the sweetness? No, it’s because you get these intense flavours.”

Berry good

David Cohen stands beside a large stainless steel fermentation tank inside Ainoa Winery’s production facility in Hollola, Finland.

“We noticed that Finland was missing something – everywhere you go where they make wine, people are proud of their local wines. And we didn’t see that in Finland,” says David.Photo: Visit Lahti

Over the years their mantelpiece has grown crowded with international awards from places as far-flung as Australia, the US and Germany. And firsts. Their Sametti was the first wine made in Finland to win a gold medal in an international competition – at the Eastern International Wine Competition in Sonoma California in 2016. Vaapukka was the first fruit wine in the world to win a trophy in France – at the Vinalies Internationales competition in 2017. Since then, Ainoa wines have continued to rack up awards.

Not every great wine was planned, though. An accident during the sediment removal process unexpectedly mixed two wines. Both batches, ruined. David was ready to dump the lot. Paola said no.

A bottle of Ainoa berry wine and a filled wine glass are displayed on a tree stump beside a plate of grilled food, with a red wooden building in the background.

Wild berries sourced from Finnish Lapland are at the heart of Ainoa’s wines. “The further north the berries grow, the better the results,” says David.Photo: Visit Lahti

“Later, we came back and tasted it and we were like, Wait a minute, this tastes really good,” says Paola.

Finnish friends immediately put a name to it: Kuningatar (queen), a classic blueberry and raspberry combination the couple had only ever encountered in ice cream. Judges agreed.

“As soon as we launched it – the month after – we got our first gold medal in France for that wine,” says Paola.

In spring 2025 it also became the first Nordic wine and the first fruit wine in the world to receive a Grand Gold medal at the Vinalies Internationales in Paris. Different approaches, same results.

“It’s hard for an immigrant to do something that gives back to the country you’re in, to really contribute to its development,” David says. “And we feel we’re doing that. Finland has lots of good things going for it, and we’re adding just a little something more.”

By James O’Sullivan, September 2026

Tag: English