On the shores of Lake Rikkavesi in North Savo, a region in eastern Finland, an age-old Finnish tradition continues to thrive: a smoke sauna heated every Wednesday during summer, open to everyone.
At Kaavinkoski Saunapirtti (Kaavinkoski sauna cabin) on a tranquil evening, soft steam rises from the hot stones. The summer sunlight lingers well into the night, and as many as 50 bathers may gather to share the sauna experience.
It takes volunteers around six hours to heat the smoke sauna each time, so it’s no small feat. Matti Rahunen, chair of the local village association, is happy to talk about the tradition.
“The first thing people should know about a Finnish smoke sauna is that there isn’t any smoke inside it when you come to bathe,” Rahunen explains.
Good things happen slowly

Smoke has darkened the walls of the sauna.Photo: Matti Rahunen
The sauna is warmed with smoke by slowly feeding a fire until the massive sauna stones glow with stored heat. After around five to six hours, all the smoke is carefully vented through the door and roof hatch, the floors and benches are washed, and the sauna is ready to welcome bathers.
Alongside Rahunen, six other volunteers from the Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association take turns preparing the sauna. The tradition is upheld by true Finnish talkoohenki, the communal spirit of showing up and doing your part to keep the community thriving.
Rahunen says that taking a full day to prepare the smoke sauna is enjoyable: a soothing ritual in itself. And, he says, it is never a lonely task.
“Locals know we heat the sauna on summer Wednesdays,” he says. “Throughout the day, one visitor after another drops by to greet whoever is on duty.”
Describing the indescribable

The sauna is located on the shore of Lake Rikkavesi.Photo: the Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
“Some arrive by boat, others while out walking their dog,” says Rahunen. “One summer resident from nearby even flies in at least once each summer by seaplane – landing right there on the lake – and often stays the whole evening to relax in the sauna.”
Monika and Dieter Beyer, from a small town in Saxony-Anhalt, Germany, have vacationed in Finland almost every summer for more than 20 years. On summer Wednesdays, Monika can usually be found at Kaavinkoski Saunapirtti, bathing in the soft heat of the sauna, taking refreshing dips in the lake and chatting with Finnish friends she has made over the years.
“I still remember my first smoke sauna here,” she says. “I had memorised a few standard sentences in Finnish. Basically, I knew how to say, ‘I am a German tourist. Unfortunately, I do not speak Finnish.’”
That wasn’t an issue. “I’ll never forget the happy reply I received from the volunteer warming the sauna: ‘That’s not a problem; I speak a little German!’”
Monika Beyer emphasises that a Finnish smoke sauna is an experience like no other.
“This type of sauna is so original, so special,” she says. “No artificial infusion fragrances, just a completely natural, soft smoky scent. It really cannot be compared to other kinds of saunas.”
She savours the experience: “Enjoying the heat, gently ladling pure water on the stones – it’s so relaxing, it’s almost indescribable. It always makes me feel like a new person. Everyone should try it at least once in their lifetime.”
Evening coffee by the lake

Coffee brewed in a kettle over an open fire is an essential part of the sauna experience. Many visitors linger afterwards to enjoy the peace and quiet of nature.Photo: the Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
On smoke sauna evenings, men have their turn at six o’clock, and at half past seven they clear out and the women take over.
“For the first 18 years, women went first,” Rahunen says. “Two years ago, we decided to switch the order around. Which works better? I guess we’ll give it another 16 years to see. Then we will have a basis for fair comparison.”

The grounds of Kaavinkoski sauna cabin include a campfire site on the lakeshore.Photo: the Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
It’s a social occasion. After the sauna, most people stay to chat, relax and have an evening coffee brewed the traditional way over an open fire. Nokipannukahvi, which roughly translates to “soot-pot coffee” is another Finnish tradition. Many visitors also bring food to grill in the cosy hut by the lake.
By Joanna Sinclair, July 2026





















