When Katja Pantzar moved from Canada to Finland in the early 2000s, she planned to stay for one year to explore her Finnish roots. More than 20 years later, she is still there and thriving.
“I fell in love with the lifestyle and the many aspects of life in Finland that made sense to me,” Pantzar says when we meet at the Oodi Library in central Helsinki, which she frequently uses as her workspace.
Carrying a bike helmet in one hand and her work bag in the other, and her glowing complexion radiates energy. She has already taken her daily morning dip in the sea. Pantzar cycles almost everywhere she goes in the city and knows all of the many public spots that are easily accessible for swimming and sauna.
“This would not be possible where I grew up in North America,” she says.
Campfire-like atmosphere

Pantzar lived in New Zealand as a young child. Her family then moved to Vancouver, Canada, where she grew up. She later lived in Toronto before moving to Finland.Photo: Katja Pantzar
When Pantzar first moved to Finland, she didn’t understand the appeal of sauna. Then an acquaintance suggested she try winter swimming. As a journalist and someone eager to try new things, she decided to give it a go.
On a freezing, dark February morning, she stood on a dock in Helsinki’s Katajanokka neighbourhood, dressed only in her swimsuit, feeling slightly ridiculous. Gathering her courage, she slipped into the icy water for a few seconds. Her body tingled with sharp, prickling sensations.
“But as soon as I came out, I felt immense euphoria,” Pantzar recalls. “I could not believe how good I felt, both mentally and physically.”
Afterwards, she warmed up in the sauna in the soft, enveloping löyly, the steam created by ladling water onto the hot stones. She began to appreciate the sauna’s peaceful, almost campfire-like atmosphere in a new way.
“People talk quietly, everyone behaves respectfully, there are no phones and everyone is equal,” she says.
Researching Nordic wellbeing

Ice swimming is a popular pastime in Finland.Photo: Kuvatoimisto Kuvio, Helsinki Partners
Inspired by the experience, Pantzar embarked on a personal journey of discovery and began researching sauna and the health benefits of alternating hot and cold.
This led to her first book, The Finnish Way (Penguin Random House, 2018), about Nordic wellbeing, winter swimming and sisu, a Finnish word often translated as resilience, courage or perseverance. The book has appeared in 24 languages and is a bestseller in the US.
“In many countries, wellbeing is associated with money and status, whereas in Finland everyone has access to parks, forests, cycling routes, swimming spots and saunas,” Pantzar says.
Coincidentally, the book was published around the same time Finland was first singled out as the happiest country in the world by the World Happiness Report, sparking increased international interest in the country.
“The metrics focus on wellbeing, such as safety, trust in government and other people, access to healthcare and high-quality education, and overall quality of life,” Pantzar says. “These are all aspects of Finnish society that appeal to me.” She adds that she is especially happy to be raising her child in Finland.
Sharing the essence of sauna

Sauna brings people together and creates an offline space for connection and community. Public saunas, like Kotiharju in the picture, are open to everyone.Photo: Maija Astikainen, Helsinki Partners
As people frequently asked Pantzar to recommend saunas in the Helsinki area, she realised there was limited information available about the wide range of public saunas open to everyone. She also wanted to share what she sees as the true essence of sauna culture.
That inspired her to write Helsinki by Sauna (Siltala, 2025), a curated guide to public saunas in and around the capital. From city-centre favourites to island retreats, most are accessible by foot, bike, public transport or a short boat trip. While the book can be used as a travel guide, it is equally valuable for locals exploring their city.
“Sauna brings people together and creates an offline space for connection and community,” Pantzar says. “I often tell visitors to Finland that the best way to meet people is to go to a sauna.”
Through her own winter swimming and sauna routine, Pantzar has built friendships and a strong sense of belonging. For her, sauna has become a natural part of everyday life – one that remains open to everyone and quietly shapes the way people connect in Helsinki.
Katja Pantzar’s top 3 Helsinki sauna tips
- Villa Salmela Sauna is housed in a little wooden cottage in eastern Helsinki and the only Karelian-inspired sauna in the area. The small, cosy sauna has easy access to swimming and is open year-round.
- Kotiharjun Sauna in Kallio is a spiritual experience going back in time. Opened in 1928, it is housed in an apartment block and has separate saunas for men and women.
- The smoke sauna at Löyly is the only authentic smoke sauna in the city centre. Outside Helsinki, smoke saunas are available in Kuusijärvi.
By Catarina Stewen, August 2026
























