Tracing the trail of an extinct sea giant, Finnish novelist finds literary success

For many children growing up in the Helsinki region, a visit to the Finnish Museum of Natural History leaves a lasting impression – especially because of the huge dinosaur skeletons up on the third floor.

So it was also with Iida Turpeinen, who remembers visiting the museum before she had reached school age.

“As a child, I wanted to become either a writer or a zoologist,” says Turpeinen.

The dinosaurs might have gotten all the attention back then, but years later, another museum exhibit caught her eye – a skeleton of Steller’s sea cow, an enormous aquatic mammal discovered in 1741 and hunted to extinction only 27 years later.

The story of the animal’s brief and tragic contact with humans perplexed Turpeinen. How could a species be wiped from the face of the earth in such a short time? Moreover, how did the skeleton, which was found on a remote island in the Bering Sea, end up in Helsinki?

By this time, Turpeinen had made her career choice, studying comparative literature at the University of Helsinki. She crafted her debut novel based on what she discovered as she searched for answers to her questions.

Recommended by the New York Times

Author Iida Turpeinen stands behind the skeleton of a Steller’s sea cow at the Finnish Museum of Natural History.

The skeleton of Steller’s sea cow, and the story of how it ended up in the Finnish Museum of Natural History, inspired Iida Turpeinen’s debut novel.

Beasts of the Sea was published in Finnish in 2023. On one level, the book tells the curious stories of a few individuals whose lives become intertwined with Steller’s sea cow (or its skeleton) in one way or another. There is also a strong ecological undercurrent in the narrative: the extinction of one species acts as a concrete example of humanity’s devastating effect on nature.

“Writing fiction is a good way to address a phenomenon such as biodiversity loss,” says Turpeinen. “It is a slow catastrophe that is difficult to pinpoint. But literature has the ability to create an emotional attachment to such an abstract issue.”

The curved ribs and vertebrae of a Steller’s sea cow skeleton are illuminated in a museum display with blue-toned lighting.

The collections of the Finnish Museum of Natural History include one of the world’s only skeletons of the extinct Steller’s sea cow.

The book turned out to be an instant success. It won the Helsingin Sanomat Literature Prize, awarded by the country’s largest daily to the best debut work in Finland. A couple years later, the book appeared in English and topped a New York Times recommendation list called “Sumptuous New Historical Fiction.”

The book’s success has kept Turpeinen busy, as she has been visiting book fairs, giving interviews and advising translators – so busy that she struggles to find the time to work on her next book. “I should be working on my second novel,” she says. “But most of my time is still being spent with Beasts of the Sea.”

She adds with a laugh, “Funnily enough, now that I’m an established writer, I seem to have less time for writing than ever before.”

Once she finds the time, her upcoming book will deal with one of history’s most famous scientific hoaxes, she says, but she won’t reveal more at this point.

Challenges of translation

Author Iida Turpeinen looks down from a curved staircase inside the Finnish Museum of Natural History, framed by white balustrades and arches.

Iida Turpeinen enjoys working at the Finnish Museum of Natural History, where she learns something new every day from her colleagues.

At the time of writing, translation rights have been sold for 29 languages. If editions are published in all of them, the novel could rank among the ten most translated Finnish-language books for adults.

The original Finnish name of the book, Elolliset, translates roughly to “the living things.” It is an ambiguous and somewhat poetic name, whereas the English title, Beasts of the Sea, could be the name of a science fiction, horror or war adventure story. Other translations also have a taste of their own.

Turpeinen is amused by the different connotations, but she points out that the English name is appropriate, after all: Georg Wilhelm Steller, who discovered the species, described it in a treatise called De Bestiis Marinis – “beasts of the sea” in Latin.

The book is apparently a challenging one to translate. To help the translators, Turpeinen has put together an FAQ file, which is now 111 pages long.

Writer and part-time museum guide

Author Iida Turpeinen sits on a staircase at the Finnish Museum of Natural History, resting her head on one hand with white balustrades blurred in the background.

Iida Turpeinen is working on her second novel. Her first took seven years to write.

Currently, Turpeinen enjoys a rather special arrangement: she is the writer-in-residence at the Museum of Natural History – a unique case of an artist sharing a working space with the museum’s researchers.

“This is an inspiring place to work for a representative of the humanities like myself,” she says. “Each time I take a coffee break, I learn new and fun things from my colleagues.”

While her main job is quite simply creating a new book, she has also taken on duties as part of the museum’s public engagement team. She joins some of the guided tours, enlightening the visitors with stories about certain exhibits.

“There is a vast cultural history behind the museum’s collections – how they were collected, what kind of philosophical thinking was involved, and so forth.”

Bridging the gap of childhood dreams

Standing next to Jussi Mäntynen’s bronze moose statue, author Iida Turpeinen poses outside the Finnish Museum of Natural History.

Iida Turpeinen stands outside the Finnish Museum of Natural History next to a bronze moose statue created by sculptor Jussi Mäntynen in the 1920s.

Thinking back on her childhood dreams, while Turpeinen is happy about her career choice, she says she always felt a certain sadness for having closed the door to the world of natural sciences.

But by ending up as a writer within the Museum of Natural History, writing stories rich with scientific history, Turpeinen has come full circle, in a way.

“As a writer of fiction, I don’t have to make the choice between science and literature. I can wander freely in both of these worlds.”

By Juha Mäkinen, June 2026
Photos by Emilia Kangasluoma

Celebrating a century of jazz in Finland

The jazz centenary dates back symbolically to the arrival of American musicians in Helsinki aboard a ship in June 1926.

Yet the tradition stretches back even further in the southeastern port city of Kotka, where accordionist Johan Homan played ragtime and jazz five years earlier after a stint in the US.

The sailors’ pubs of Kotka were still a hotbed of jazz in the early ’60s, when saxophone legend Eero Koivistoinen started out there – though most bands also played pop to earn a living.

“Foreign sailors would go to the clubs or bars to hear jazz,” recalls Koivistoinen. “Some of the bands used to play jazz for the first hour before switching to dance music. When I was too young to get in, I’d listen from outside.”

Staying young

Two saxophonists, one man and one woman, play in front of a group of other musicians on a stage.

Eero Koivistoinen (left) and Adele Sauros played a concert with Sointi Jazz Orchestra Oulu in honour of the 100th anniversary of jazz’s start in Finland.Photo: Maarit Kytöharju

“Finland is widely recognised as a powerhouse of classical music, but our jazz hasn’t yet achieved a similarly distinctive international profile,” says Maria Silvennoinen, head of the Finnish Jazz Federation. “This year, we’re celebrating its 100th anniversary, showcasing the exceptionally high quality, diversity and international calibre of contemporary Finnish jazz.”

Koivistoinen got into jazz thanks to his brother, who was a sailor. “He brought back jazz records from overseas in the late ’50s, so I was introduced to Dave Brubeck, Billie Holiday and Lester Young,” he says.

He started playing sax at age 16, going on to study in Helsinki and Boston. He recorded as a bandleader in 1967 at age 21 with legendary drummer Edward Vesala, later recording two albums in New York with American stars such as John Scofield and Jack DeJohnette. In 2023, he teamed up with British keyboardist Greg Foat for the acclaimed album Feathers.

“Finnish jazz really started to develop in the late ’60s and early ’70s, when people started to compose original music rather than just playing standards,” Koivistoinen says. “Later on, there’s been even more distinctive Finnish jazz, mixing with folk, rock and indigenous Sámi music.” He has just been rehearsing with a student ensemble at the Sibelius Academy in Helsinki.

“I like playing with these young musicians. I get energy from them, so it goes both ways. It keeps you young, because they’re hungry! It’s good that there are more younger people in the audiences nowadays, too.”

Musical milestones

Seven musicians in suits pose in a row, including two accordionists, two saxophonists, a trombonist, a trumpeter and a banjo player.

Saxophonist Wilfred “Tommy” Tuomikoski (fourth from left) was one of three musicians who stayed in Finland after arriving on the Andania in 1926. Here he’s playing with Fennia’s Embassy Band at the restaurant Fennia in the late 1920s.Photo: Rafael Roos / Helsinki City Museum

In autumn 2026, the ageless saxophonist celebrates his 80th birthday with concerts in Helsinki and Kotka, the latter with the Kymi Sinfonietta.

They’re part of a string of events marking 100 years since the S/S Andania arrived in Helsinki Harbour, carrying Finnish Americans for a visit. The ship’s band played gigs in the city, setting off fireworks among the local musicians and fans. Saxophonist Wilfred “Tommy” Tuomikoski stayed for nine years, playing with various bands, starting a school and publishing the first Finnish saxophone handbook.

“Tuomikoski had a big influence,” says Koivistoinen, who coproduced the Jazz Finland 100 historical website. “He was the main guy who brought improvisation to Finland.”

This year also marks other major Finnish jazz milestones. The Pori Jazz Festival, one of Europe’s oldest, marks its 60-year anniversary in July.

Jazz reflects who we are

A man with closed eyes smiles as he plays a drum set.

Like many leading jazz musicians, drummer Joonas Riippa is active in a variety of different bands and lineups.Photo: Maarit Kytöharju

Koivistoinen cofounded the UMO Helsinki Jazz Orchestra, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary and just named Finnish Estonian singer and keyboardist Bianca Rantala, 27, as its new composer-in-residence. She’s taking part in various concerts honouring these shared anniversaries, including Koivistoinen’s birthday festivities.

Rantala sees unique aspects in Finnish jazz – and in its listeners.

“There are often more layers on top of virtuosity, this beautiful and exciting sisu and melancholy,” she says. Sisu is a uniquely Finnish combination of courage and perseverance. Rantala adds, “Jazz is one of the art forms closest to humanity, because it mirrors who we are. We improvise every day in life, and jazz does exactly the same thing.”

She continues, “Audience-wise, people are genuinely curious. They’re very supportive of new artists, projects and ideas. UMO attracted a record number of concert visitors last year, which shows that interest in jazz is strong.

“Another positive trend is that we’re seeing more diversity and more women in the scene, which is wonderful. I’m really excited about the many young talents with incredible skills and virtuosity, as well as open minds and a strong work ethic.”

Multifaceted scene

A woman in a baseball cap plays a baritone saxophone, with colourful stage lighting in the background.

Saxophonist and composer Linda Fredriksson plays at a concert promoting the album Juniper.Photo: Maarit Kytöharju

Silvennoinen agrees with Rantala. “Finnish jazz has become increasingly multifaceted,” she says. “Younger musicians are more strongly oriented towards markets and studies abroad, building collaborations from the start.”

At home, Silvennoinen says, “the structures supporting Finnish jazz remain relatively fragile, but new organisations and promoters have set up year-round programmes in various regions, which help to make jazz more accessible. It’s also being presented in nontraditional settings, introducing it to broader audiences.”

By Wif Stenger, June 2026

Finnish crime author illuminates the darkness

It’s an unusual feat to bring lightness into a genre that is known for its literal and figurative darkness. Yet Nordic noir author Satu Rämö has managed to do just that. She treats her characters well and attempts to see the good in people, even when the devil on their shoulder wins.

“I bring a compassionate mindset to my work, especially when I’m creating characters who do harmful or morally questionable things,” she says. “I try to approach them with some softness, to understand what drives their behaviour.”

Rämö is best known for her international bestseller Hildur (published in English as The Clues in the Fjord) and its sequels Rósa & Björk (The Grave in the Ice), Jakob (The Shadow of the Northern Lights), Rakel (The Secrets from the Deep) and Tinna (The Stranger from the Mountains). Set in a remote Icelandic village, the series begins with police officer Hildur Rúnarsdóttir and her Finnish colleague, police trainee Jakob Johanson, attempting to solve a string of interconnected murders. While working as the chief of the missing children’s unit, Hildur struggles with the trauma caused by her younger sisters’ disappearance years earlier.

When Rämö talks about approaching all her characters through a lens of compassion, she means trying to understand the powerful emotions behind criminality. These are often rooted in shame, rejection and the feeling of being unseen or unheard.

“I’m not interested in glorifying violence,” she says. “I want to understand what drives it. We all carry a deep, dark well within us, and it reflects different things in each of us. That’s the space I’m drawn to explore.”

A surprise success

Since the publication of the first Hildur book in 2022, the series has become a massive hit. It has broken Finnish sales records and gained success in international markets. Translation rights have been sold to dozens of countries, including the UK and Germany, where the book spent eight weeks on the magazine Der Spiegel’s bestseller list. The first one of three volumes was recently adapted into a Finnish-language play, and an internationally produced television series of Hildur premiered in Finland in early 2026, with other countries to follow.

Rämö is hesitant to guess why the world of Hildur has been so widely celebrated, but she suspects it might have something to do with her human approach to the characters.

The emotional depth comes across in interactions and small gestures, especially between Hildur and Jakob. These characters wish the best for each other, even when the surrounding world closes in on them. Whether it’s Jakob’s custody battle over his young son or Hildur’s quiet resilience as she deals with one loss after another, readers have found emotional resonance.

“People tell me they don’t usually read crime fiction, but have gotten into the genre through my characters,” Rämö says. “For many, emotional relatability comes first, then the crimes and plot twists.”

She’s managed to capture the interest of the elusive “wide audience”: at a book fair a group of teenage boys approached her for autographs, while at the other end of the spectrum, she’s received handwritten letters from 90-year-old readers.

Creating a new friend

A woman swims in a body of water, looking up. Skyscrapers and a bridge are in the far background.
The character of Hildur was born out of seclusion during the Covid pandemic. Originally from Finland, Rämö first fell in love with Iceland (and an Icelandic man) in the early 2000s as an exchange student. That man is now her husband and the couple has two children. The family has been living in Iceland for more than a decade.

Just as Covid restrictions were beginning, Rämö and her family left Reykjavík for Ísafjörður, a town of 3,000 people seven hours away from the capital. As newcomers, they didn’t have a community network yet. Stuck at home and desperate for something to do, Rämö remembered having an imaginary friend as a child.

“We would have conversations and play hide-and-seek,” she recalls fondly. Even though the friendship happened inside Rämö’s head, it created a real sense of belonging.

She returned to her old ways and started imagining. She wanted to create someone she could relate to, but who would be different enough to be intriguing.

Little by little, Hildur came to life: a police officer who surfs in the unruly Atlantic Ocean, deadlifts twice her body weight, and enjoys pizza for lunch.

Through this character, Rämö took the opportunity to imagine the dark underbelly of the peaceful Icelandic community. In Ísafjörður, crime rates are low, and people feel safe enough to leave their doors unlocked at night.

But what if the sense of safety was false? What if child abuse, corruption and cronyism were secretly a part of this community, too?

With social critique mixed in with the plot, a modern Nordic noir classic was born.

Fighting an endless November

Finnish author Satu Rämö sits on a bicycle rack, smiling at the camera.

Satu Rämö’s Finnish roots and Icelandic home both shape the atmosphere of her bestselling crime series.

Rämö’s compassionate approach to her characters is not exactly common for Nordic noir and its screen adaptations. In fact, Jaakko Seppälä, lecturer in film and television studies at the University of Helsinki, summarises the genre this way:

“Nordic noir is crime fiction that dwells on negative emotions, set against the backdrop of an endless November. There’s no snow on the ground yet; it’s pitch black and rainy. People are disappointed and exhausted.”

According to Seppälä, one thing makes the genre distinct, especially compared to American crime fiction.

“In the background, the Nordic welfare state is slowly unravelling,” he says. “These countries are often held up as a global model of social order, free healthcare, functional social services – you get the gist. Finland was recently rated the happiest country in the world for the eighth time in a row. [Editor’s note: Since this interview, it has happened again, for the ninth time.] All of this makes the cracks in the system all the more compelling to explore.”

Nordic noir does its best to expose cracks in a system that’s supposed to take care of everyone. It highlights class divides by placing the wealthy in sleek, design-filled homes, while others live in cramped apartments or end up on the streets. International hits such as the Danish TV series The Killing or Swedish author Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy dig into the abuse of institutional power and the ways the system fails to protect women and children.

“The genre asks what happened to us and where we are going as a society,” Seppälä says. “We feel like we’ve lost something that was once dear to us – and that something is the welfare state.” Even small structural changes can lead to significant fears, especially for people who are already at the mercy of the system or have been failed by it.

And that is usually when the crimes begin. Viewers are glued to their dimly lit screens as traumatised police officers chase psychopaths and evil geniuses, the only source of light being the main detective’s moral compass.

Hildur comes alive

Satu Rämö leans against a stone doorframe in front of an ornate wooden door with large iron hinges and decorations.

In 2025 Satu Rämö’s book Hildur was adapted into an international television drama series of the same name.

In the winter of 2025, Rämö stood on a beach in her home city. It is a familiar place she often visits, but this time was different. In front of her, in the ice-cold waves of the ocean, actor Ebba Katrín Finnsdóttir was teaching co-actor Lauri Tilkanen to surf on camera. Hildur and Jakob came to life as Hildur was being adapted into a multilanguage television series in the exact location of its source material.

A sign of Nordic noir’s evolution, according to Seppälä, is its move away from major cities and into more remote, peripheral settings. Instead of Copenhagen, Helsinki and Malmö, criminals roam around Fjällbacka, Ivalo, and Ísafjörður.
These shifts introduce viewers to new and exotic locations where rural Nordic nature gets to play a role of its own.

Even though Rämö wasn’t involved in the script or casting of the show, the books’ wary rays of light bleed onto the screen.

“It is a Nordic noir series, but it won’t be as dark and depressing as it could be,” says Rämö. “Yes, everything is quite horrible in Hildur’s universe, but there’s a lot of good there, too. I’m glad they’ve chosen to show that.”

Conventionally unconventional

A woman, Satu Rämö, leans on a metal handrail on an outside staircase.

Rämö likes to break genre conventions. There are no murdered women found naked on the beach, and no detectives flirting with alcoholism while desperately trying to balance work and family.

While traditional Nordic noir protagonists drown their stress in booze and all-nighters, Rämö’s main character Hildur goes for a run and enjoys a plate of greasy sausages with her aunt. Jakob, the Finnish colleague, knits.

“I wanted to create characters who could just be,” says Rämö. “Jakob is a little softer and a little calmer than a police officer traditionally is. Hildur enjoys casual sex and strength training simply because that’s who she is. It’s not a heroic tale of a strong woman or a gentle man, although we need both of those, too.”

If there’s one Nordic noir trope she relates to, it’s isolation. As an expat Finn living in Iceland, Rämö is between two countries and two nationalities, always feeling a little bit like an outsider.

Hildur herself occupies a similar liminal space. She enjoys a solitary life without a large group of friends or a romantic partner. She doesn’t want to build a family of her own, yet she longs for the one she lost.

Rämö identifies with that feeling of solitude. She says, “There’s something beautifully melancholic about Hildur and the story she tells herself. She’s alone but not lonely.”

Text: Kristiina Ella Markkanen, ThisisFINLAND Magazine
Photography: Mikael Niemi
Style: Suvi Poutiainen
Make-up and hair: Essi Kylmänen

Finnish natural and cultural heritage in abundance

An inspiring landscape

Koli National Park Photo: Marko Haapalehto

Koli National Park in North Karelia is one of Finland’s most dramatic landscapes. It inspired composer Jean Sibelius and many other artists. The terrain is varied, and the flora and fauna very diverse. The cliff tops are rugged, and the most famous lookout, Ukko-Koli, offers a magnificent view to the east towards Lake Pielinen. Camping is permitted in marked areas and various other types of accommodation are available in the area.

Suitable for all ages all year round. Some parts are accessible to people with disabilities.

Natural wonders near the city

Nuuksio National ParkPhoto: Katri Lehtola/Metsähallitus

It is rare in Europe for a national park to be so close to a capital city. The area has remained uninhabited because its difficult bogs and cliffs are unsuitable for agriculture. Nuuksio’s lakes, forests, valleys, swamps and cliffs provide the perfect hiking environment. Visit the Finnish Nature Centre in Haltia to discover all of Finland’s natural habitats in one place.

Suitable for all ages. Part of the area is wheelchair-accessible.

Enjoy the exotic wilderness

Oulanka National ParkPhoto: Minna Koramo

Oulanka National Park is bordered on the east by Russia’s own Paanajärvi National Park. The northern landscape is dominated by pine forests and river valleys with sandy banks. You can walk over suspension bridges and listen to roaring rapids. The routes for hiking vary from short day trails to the 82-kilometer (about 50-mile) Bear Trail, one of Finland’s most popular hiking trails. You can also travel by kayak, cycle, ski or snowshoe. Most of the sights are located within a few kilometres by foot or canoe. One of the routes is accessible.

See the effects of the Ice Age

The Kvarken Archipelago Photo: Eva Ramstedt

Kvarken is the narrow middle section of the Gulf of Bothnia. Its Finnish-language name, Merenkurkku, means “throat of the sea”. The archipelago exemplifies the phenomenon of land uplift since the last Ice Age. Today, the land is rising by about eight millimetres annually, expanding the area by about 100 hectares every year.

The Kvarken Archipelago is Finland’s only Natural World Heritage Site on the Unesco List. It forms a geological entity with Sweden’s World Heritage Site Höga Kusten.

Most of the sights can be reached by car or boat. Certain routes are wheelchair accessible.

The beauty of wood

Petäjävesi Old Church Photo: Ismo Pekkarinen/Lehtikuva

The Old Church in Petäjävesi, central Finland, represents the long tradition of log construction and Lutheran church architecture. The church was built from 1763 to 1765, and its appearance has remained almost unchanged since then. The old church is still used during the summer.

Industrial history from the 19th century

Verla Groundwood and Board Mill Photo: Pekka Sakki/Lehtikuva

The Verla wood pulping mill and cardboard factory is a unique World Heritage Site. The factory milieu in southeastern Finland has been preserved in its original form, surrounded by a residential area for workers. Exhibitions, an ironworks, village shops, a café and a wine shop complete the atmosphere. Guests can stay overnight in former millworkers’ houses in a late 19th-century setting, in a traditional lumberjack’s hut or in newer wooden cottages. You can also see prehistoric rock paintings by the river.

People with reduced mobility can participate in part of the standard tour.

The most popular national park in Finland

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park Photo: Otto Ponto/Lehtikuva

The northernmost part of this national park is located in the far-northern municipality of Enontekiö, part of the homeland of the indigenous Sámi people. The landscape of Pallas-Yllästunturi is dominated by a chain of fells about a hundred kilometres long. There are 25 open wilderness huts in the park and nearby.

In wintertime, the highland of the national park is perfect for cross-country skiing, along trails with a total length of 500 kilometres (about 310 miles). The legendary 55-kilometer (about 34-mile) Hetta-Pallas trail runs through the landscape and is the oldest marked hiking trail in Finland. There are also a number of marked mountain bike routes in the area.

Island hopping

Two people in sporty clothing are cycling along a seaside path in summer.

The Archipelago Trail Photo: Juho Kuva

The Archipelago Trail is a popular way to explore the archipelago of southwestern Finland by car or bicycle. Island hopping is one of the things that makes this route special – there are nine ferries and numerous bridges. All except one of the ferries are free of charge. Along the way, you experience the stunning archipelago scenery, restaurants and farm shops and enjoy the sea breeze. The length of the trip is 250 kilometres (155 miles).

Everyday life at a World Heritage Site

Suomenlinna FortressPhoto: iStock

Suomenlinna is a sea fortress located approximately one kilometre (about 0.6 miles) off the coast of Helsinki. It is one of Finland’s most popular tourist destinations, receiving a million visitors in a typical year. Cafés and restaurants abound, and various cultural events take place throughout the seasons. Suomenlinna is also a district of Helsinki with about 800 residents.

Some parts of area are wheelchair-accessible, but the terrain can be challenging.

Ancient history in rock

Hossa National ParkPhoto: Ismo Pekkarinen/Lehtikuva

Hossa National Park is situated in the northern part of Suomussalmi, a municipality in eastern Finland. Its varied terrain contains about 130 lakes and ponds, separated by several ridges. Besides enjoying the magnificent wilderness, you can see traces of life that are thousands of years old: the rock paintings at Julma-Ölkky and Värikallio depict stories based in shamanism.

Hossa National Park is excellent for families with children. It provides versatile services for people with disabilities.

By Päivi Leinonen, ThisisFINLAND Magazine

Finnish sauna bathing lowers stress and lifts your mood, studies say

The Finnish sauna has long been a source of wellbeing, with proven health benefits for both body and mind.

Sauna bathing can reduce excess stress in the body,” says professor Jari Laukkanen, who has been studying the health effects of sauna bathing. “Sauna improves vascular elasticity and therefore lowers blood pressure.”

The benefits are strongest among active bathers – those who sauna four to seven times per week. “Notably, combining exercise with sauna can lower blood pressure even more than exercise alone,” Laukkanen explains.

The sauna is also a good ally for caring for your mental health: research shows sauna bathers are generally positive and often cheerful. They report a higher quality of life than those who avoid the steam.

As Carita Harju of Sauna from Finland puts it: “In the sauna, we forget the phone and take a moment for ourselves. I always say sauna is meditation without the meditation practice.”

A list of sauna health benefits is featured on Kotona.com, a Finnish lifestyle site covering homes, design, crafts and everyday living in Finland. (Kotona means “at home” in Finnish.)

Finnish chef Arto Rastas brings Nordic flavours to Cristiano Ronaldo

When your client is Cristiano Ronaldo, one of the world’s greatest footballers, there’s no room for error. But Finnish chef and restaurateur Arto Rastas is not easily shaken. He has cooked for royalty, presidents and other high-profile figures, and pressure rarely fazes him.

He has been honing his craft for decades, ever since he started out at 14 as an assistant at a roadside service station in the northern city of Rovaniemi, right on the Arctic Circle. Back then, he was preparing sandwich fillings rather than haute cuisine.

Northern Finland is where Rastas first cooked for Ronaldo and his family. The brief was clear: plenty of vegetables and fruit, alongside meat, fish and seafood – healthy, uncomplicated food made from pure ingredients. Strip away butter and cream, and a chef’s skill is truly tested.

“No dairy. Zero sugar,” Rastas says.

The holidaying star and his family were impressed. In fact, they were so taken with his cooking that Ronaldo invited Rastas to Saudi Arabia to work as his private chef.

“I suppose the chemistry just clicked.”

More than a year after that first invitation, Rastas’s life looks different.

From Lapland to the capital

A plated dish of fish with vegetables, herbs and sauce, is served in a dark bowl.

Rastas prefers to cook with pure Finnish ingredients. His whitefish sashimi is complemented by root vegetables and roe.

In Finland, Rastas, 46, is a well-established name. His career spans television, restaurants, a Michelin star and large-scale hospitality ventures.

Yet it all began in that service station kitchen in Rovaniemi in the 1990s. From there, he moved on to culinary school and headed south to Helsinki.

“I arrived with a backpack and plenty of drive,” he says.

In the capital, he worked wherever he could – from the iconic Finlandia Hall, a landmark venue in Helsinki, to golf club restaurants, small kitchens and larger establishments, including the Palace and Marski hotels.

A defining moment came at Restaurant George, led by chef Markus Aremo. “We earned a Michelin star there,” says Rastas. “At the time, I felt I had achieved everything.”

Soon after, Rastas relocated to Lempäälä, a small town near Tampere in southern central Finland. But the momentum continued. He went on to win the world championship for young chefs in 2005.

“That gave me confidence and visibility.”

In 2007, he opened his first restaurant, Hella ja Huone, in Tampere. Since then, his portfolio has expanded to include the Periscope event venue in Tampere and restaurants such as Penélope, Bardot, Bistro Gina and Brasserie Lionne in Helsinki.

Rastas is now one of Finland’s most prosperous restaurateurs. He is driven, he admits, by a strong appetite for success.

At the same time, he returned north. In the northern Finnish ski resort town of Levi, he began working as a private chef in luxury villas. Later he founded the Helsinki Culinary Institute, which offers professional training for chefs.

A clean, northern flavour

Finnish chef Arto Rastas smiles at the camera while wearing a dark chef’s jacket with his name embroidered on the chest.

Arto Rastas hails from Rovaniemi in the north of Finland, right on the Arctic Circle.

Let’s slow down. It is hard to keep up with Rastas’s pace.

When we visit his kitchen, Rastas prepares a starter: whitefish sashimi. He slices the fresh lake fish, lightly torches the surface and builds the dish with seasonal vegetables. He adds roe, followed by a sauce made from white currants and their leaves. Finally, Rastas scatters dill on the plate.

The result is elegant and distinctly Nordic.

“This turned out so well, I might have to put it on a menu,” he says with a smile.

Finnish food has become a personal mission for Rastas. In his view, it is among the best in the world – and increasingly, others are beginning to agree as Nordic cuisine gains global attention.

In recent years, he has also been thinking about how Finnish food could travel further.

How does he define it?

“Clean.”

Simple, focused and visually distinctive. He sees untapped potential in forest flavours such as spruce tips and juniper – ingredients that could be used far more widely.

Finnish vegetables, berries and mushrooms, he adds, taste different from anywhere else. The reason lies in the country’s short growing season. “It’s brief but intense.”

That intensity concentrates flavour.

“Give Finnish new potatoes to an American, and they might wonder what they’ve been missing.”

Cooking in Riyadh

A chef spoons bright orange roe onto a plated fish dish beside a wooden chopping board in a professional kitchen.

Arto Rastas operates several restaurants in Finland.

What about Ronaldo’s invitation to the Middle East?

“It was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” says Rastas.

He accepted without hesitation. Last year, he and his team from North Pole Catering – cofounded with Teemu Korkalainen – travelled to Saudi Arabia for week-long residencies, spending roughly six months of the year there.

Today, Rastas and his team continue to collaborate with Ronaldo as needed, though no longer on a weekly basis.

In Riyadh, the conditions are exceptional. The kitchens are built for serious work, and accommodation is arranged on Ronaldo’s private estate.

For the footballer, Rastas creates dishes with a Finnish sensibility: clean flavours, simplicity and respect for ingredients.

When Finnish produce is not available, he turns to technique instead – pickling, charring, smoking and preserving.

“That is where the essence of Finnish cuisine lies.”

Text and photos by Emilia Kangasluoma, June 2026

Finnish fashion through fresh eyes: Emerging designers showcase work in Helsinki

Dusk was beginning to fall on an early summer evening as the fashion crowd arrived on the island of Seurasaari, where a runway show featuring some of Finland’s most promising young designers was being held.

The event showcased collections by Idaliina Friman, Linda Kokkonen, Sini Saavala, Taneli Ukura, Ellen Rajala, Jim Bergström, Ilari Kokkola, Apollo Da Costa Doria, Enni Lähderinne, Nana Lybeck and Anni Salonen.

The 11 designers presented their visions of contemporary Nordic design as part of Helsinki Fashion Week, an event known internationally for its focus on sustainable fashion.

Visitors gather outside a historic red wooden building on the island of Seurasaari during a Helsinki Fashion Week event.

One of the many events of Helsinki Fashion Week was held on the island of Seurasaari.

Three models stand on wooden plinths in the courtyard of a historic log building, wearing dark layered garments and denim pieces from Jim Bergström’s collection.

Designer Jim Bergström showed his collection in the courtyard of Niemelä Tenant Farm.

A model wearing a long tan coat, a dark top, leopard-print trousers and green belt poses outdoors at a fashion show in Seurasaari, Helsinki.

A model presents an outfit by Jim Bergström, who won the Young Designer of the Year award in 2018.

Seurasaari provided a striking setting for the shows. The island is home to a large open-air museum featuring historically significant wooden buildings that have been relocated from all over Finland.

Designer Linda Kokkonen’s runway show took place inside Karuna Church, Seurasaari’s oldest building, originally constructed in 1685. Four other designers presented their collections at Kahiluoto Manor House, which dates to the late 1700s.

The collections reflected many of the qualities associated with contemporary Finnish fashion: dark tones, sculptural silhouettes, artistry and a strong emphasis on sustainability.

Take a look at what Finnish fashion looks like through the eyes of a new generation of designers.

A model wearing a fitted black dress and mesh gloves holds an antique mirror during Linda Kokkonen’s runway show in Karuna Church, as audience members watch from wooden pews.

Linda Kokkonen’s gothic-inspired designs were perfectly suited to the church setting.

A model wearing a black veil and mesh gloves holds an animal jawbone during Linda Kokkonen’s runway show inside Karuna Church.

A runway show in Karuna Church showed off clothes designed by Linda Kokkonen.

A model stands outdoors at the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum in Helsinki, wearing a cream-coloured dress designed by Enni Lähderinne.

Enni Lähderinne won the Young Designer of the Year award in 2025. The woven garment this model is wearing comes from the winning competition entry and takes inspiration from the centuries-old tradition of ryijy textile weaving.

A model wearing a textured white garment by Idaliina Friman leans against a wooden doorway.

Sustainability plays a major role in the work of Idaliina Friman, who designed the garment shown here.

Three models wearing white and black designs by Idaliina Friman stand in a historic interior on the island of Seurasaari during a Helsinki Fashion Week event.

Outfits by Idaliina Friman, winner of the Young Designer of the Year award in 2021, have garnered international attention.

Kahiluoto Manor House, a traditional red wooden manor building with white-framed windows, stands amid lawns and trees at the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum.

Kahiluoto Manor House originally stood in southwestern Finland before relocation to Seurasaari in 1926.

A model wearing a textured black-and-white garment and a headpiece made from recycled materials stands in front of a traditional wooden building, while another model appears blurred in the background.

Enni Lähderinne’s work combines knitting, rya weaving (similar to ryijy) and recycled materials.

Models pose in textured cream and grey outfits designed by Ilari Kokkola with unconventional shapes and fuzzy surfaces against the backdrop of a traditional timber structure.

Ilari Kokkola’s designs feature delicate colours and intriguing silhouettes.

A model wearing a studded black leather outfit carries a grey flag across a grassy field, with other models blurred in the background near a traditional Finnish wooden building.

Designs by Apollo Da Costa Doria brought rock-and-roll energy and attitude to the runway.

Text and photos by Emilia Kangasluoma, June 2026.

Sauna, sunlight, swimming and slowing down: How Finns spend summer

“It’s the season,” says Emily, a hairdresser in the Helsinki area. “People want change.”

As summer approaches, many of her clients ask for lighter colours. In winter, she says, darker shades are more common.

At the time of our interview, Emily herself is still unsure what her summer will look like this year. One colleague is on maternity leave, and the salon has not yet confirmed whether another employee will be hired for the busy season. Summer is one of the busiest times of year for hairdressers, she says, as people prepare for the holidays.

While summer can be hectic in service industries, many offices and schools begin easing into the holiday season around the same time.

Two children enjoy ice cream beside a kiosk during a warm summer day.

Ice cream kiosks become a familiar sight across Finland during the summer holiday season.Photo: Marjaana Malkamäki, Keksi / Helsinki Partners

In Finland, schools typically close in early June and remain on break until mid-August. Many workplaces also slow down during the same period, especially from late June through the end of July.

For many Finns, the holiday season mentally begins around Juhannus, the midsummer celebration that falls on or near the summer solstice. Apartment buildings grow quieter, traffic increases on highways heading towards the countryside, and grocery stores in small rural towns suddenly become crowded with summer visitors.

July: Finland’s holiday month

People sit at an outdoor terrace in warm evening sunlight on a quiet residential street during the Finnish summer.

Courtyards, patios and terraces across Finland fill with life during the long-lasting evening sunlight of summer.Photo: Unto Rautio / Helsinki Partners

According to Statistics Finland, July is Finland’s most popular holiday month. In summer 2024, for instance, one-third of employed Finns were on holiday for at least one week during July.

Employees in Finland are legally entitled to annual paid vacation, typically about four or five weeks for someone working fulltime at a year-round position. Many people use a large portion of it during the summer months, often taking several consecutive weeks off.

Ensuring that workers have a suitable amount of vacation time encourages work-life balance and a balanced life in general, and forms part of Finland’s “infrastructure of happiness.”

In July especially, offices often operate with reduced staff, while email enquiries elicit automatic replies promising a return in August.

Wet strands of hair fall across a person’s bare shoulder as the shadow of a small wildflower is cast onto their skin in warm evening light.

Sauna heat, cool water and lingering twilight are part of the rhythm of a Finnish summer.Photo: Sanna Lehto / Finland Image Bank

At the same time, summer is also an important working season for many young people. According to Statistics Finland, employment rises sharply as summer arrives and students begin temporary jobs during their school break.

Summer is also one of the busiest seasons for weddings, festivals and domestic travel. In 2024, Finns made more than ten million domestic leisure trips between May and August, many involving summer cottages or overnight stays with friends and relatives.

Cottage life and summer routines

An adult and child wade through shallow water near the shore of a lake, with small, forested islands visible in the distance.

Many people in Finland have summer memories of swimming in the sea or in a lake.Photo: Carl Bergman / Finland Image Bank

For many Finns, summer is closely connected with the mökki, or summer cottage.

There are nearly half a million summer cottages in Finland. Many are located near lakes or forests, often within a few hours of major cities.

Some cottages are modern and comfortable, while others remain deliberately simple, without running water or full-time utilities.

A baby wearing a sun hat sits on an adult’s lap inside a bright wooden cottage with open windows and trees visible beyond.

Finnish summer holidays often revolve around calm days at the cottage with family close by.Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Partners

“I’m not a big cottage person,” Emily says with a laugh. “It’s so much work!”

Still, she remembers visiting her father’s remote cottage when she was younger.

“There was no running water, no electricity, nothing,” she says. “When we went out there, we were really disconnected from everything.”

For many people, cottage life revolves around ordinary summer routines: heating the sauna, swimming in a nearby lake, grilling food outdoors or simply sitting outside late into the evening while the light lingers.

A season spent outdoors

An adult and child gather berries in a sunlit forest clearing, with a woven basket resting between them.

Berry picking is a popular summer activity in Finland, where access to nature is protected through “every person’s right.”Photo: Sabrina Bqain / Finland Image Bank

Cottage life is only one part of Finland’s summer outdoor culture.

Many Finns spend time in nature in more ordinary ways, whether by walking in local forests, swimming at nearby beaches or spending weekends hiking and camping. According to national outdoor recreation surveys, Finns spend time outdoors frequently throughout the year, and walking in nature is one of the country’s most popular leisure activities.

Later in the summer, forests begin filling with berry pickers searching for blueberries, raspberries and lingonberries.

Thanks to Finland’s “every person’s right,” people are generally free to roam in nature and gather wild berries and mushrooms regardless of land ownership.

More than a holiday

Two young children in orange life jackets ride in a rowing boat with an adult on a peaceful lake surrounded by dense woodland and cloudy skies.

Boats, rubber boots and life jackets are familiar parts of childhood summers in Finland.Photo: Carl Bergman / Finland Image Bank

Summer holidays in Finland are not necessarily built around ambitious travel plans. For many people, the extra time simply gets folded into everyday life: visiting relatives, repairing cottages, catching up on projects that have been waiting all winter.

Emily says she will probably spend part of her own holiday helping her friends who recently bought a house.

“They need help with the yard,” she says.

The comment feels familiar somehow. Around Finland, summer is often the season when people finally have time for the things that otherwise remain unfinished: painting a fence, repairing a dock, clearing a yard or helping family members at the cottage. Even holidays meant for rest can end up including a surprising amount of practical work.

For many Finns, the appeal of summer lies partly in finally having time for these ordinary things.

By Tyler Walton, June 2026